I've always owned aluminum fishing boats but now we are looking at a fiberglass fun boat and I have a few questions (and know this is the place to get answers).
The boat I'm looking at is a 2000 model and has a couple small dings and one 6 inch scratch. Doesn't look like anything was hit hard, just bumps. The damage goes through the colored layer (gel coat?). Is this anything to be concerned about? Anything to look for?
Also, any other tips on evaluating the boat would be appreciated (I've also never owned an I/O so motor/drive tips would also be great).
If you have questions on the boat or motor - it makes sense to take thr rig to a "good" boat mechanic and have him check it out.
In general - a couple of scratches aren't a big deal, and are easily fixed with gel coat repair expoxy.
You do need to concern yourself with the bottom of the hull - any leaks, how is the compression on the motor - does it use any oil, do all of the pumps work - electronics?? Don't ever buy a boat - new or used - without first taking it out on the lake and try to do it so that you can run it on both smooth and rough water - fast, slow and in between.
Looks can be deceiving -- an on the water test - can unlock a bunch of secrets.
Take care
REW
If it's a Mercruiser I/O, inspect the bellows. Do this out of the water by raising the outdrive up to the trailering position. Then look under the outdrive at the black rubber things that look line accordians. If their dry rotted and cracking, it's time for new ones and your looking at about a $450 repair. While your at it, check for play in the gimble ring pins. Other things to look at on I/Os are the exhaust manifolds. Unfortunately, you can't see inside them. But if it's an older boat, and the manifolds are original, then your going to be looking at replacing them soon. That's about $700 if you do it yourself. You absolutely must take the boat for a test run. Be sure to run it at trolling speed. If the temp rises, or, the owner can't tell you the last time the impeller was replaced, then it's time for a new impeller. Listen for knocking sounds at various RPMs. There's a part called the gimble bearing. If it's bad, it's expense to replace. If it's pre 1994, you have to pull the outdrive to lube the coupler. No matter what year, ask the owner when the last time the coupler alignment was checked. If it's been a long time, you might be taking a chance. Couplers go bad when they get out of alignment, or when they haven't been greased. A coupler job is pricey. As much as $2K. Also if pre-1994, when was the last time the u-joints were lubed? 1994 and new have perma-lube joints. Currently, I own my first I/O. I've found it to be a very reliable package, but definately expensive if you want to maintain them like your supposed to. I run way out in Erie, so I don't take chances on maintenance. Naturally you'll also want to check the oil, upper and lower. Personally, I want to go back to an outboard for my next boat. I/Os are pretty darn heavy too. About the glass, if it looks like it's wicked up water into the bare fiberglass, be warey. It the boat has wood in the structure, and water gets to it, that's big time trouble. If it's just gel coat damage, that's a breeze to fix. Besides, if you go with a glass boat, sooner or later, you'll learn the art of gel coat repair. Beats having to deal with paint scratches any day.