Wiring 20 Alaskan

[Bob]

I would like to know how to wire trolling motors at the bow and transom, both 24 volt (you've convinced me that's the way to go----REW!) and fish finders at both ends. Some questions I have are: 1. is there another place to put two batteries in the Alaskan 20 other than the bow?, 2. what size wire for the trolling motors and the finders? 3. how do I run the wires (no gunnels) and should the finder wires be opposite the trolling motor wires? 4. if I want to install some other items, such as interior lights, etc. do I use a junction box, or bar? 5. do I use a 50 amp in-line fuse for each trolling motor? 6. what type of plugs and receptacles should I use for the trolling motors? Sorry about so many questions, but I've not done this before and I pick-up my new boat tomorrow. I'm excited about the new boat and am anxious to get started.

Thanks!

[Guest]

How about asking Lund?

[Dave K]

To wire a 24V bow mount it is a major job on the alaskan. The best spot is in the section that opens at the front of the platform. You will need to use a snake to to run the wires up to the very front of the boat. I don't recommend 2 batteries in the anchor locker (at the very front) because it drastically affects the boat performance.

I went with a 12V battery on my Alaskan due to the difficulties associated with 2. I find the performance more than adequate.

[Bob]

Dave K, when you say the "best spot", are you refering to the anchor compartment----the one furthest to the bow? And what do you mean that it drastically affects the performance of the boat? I seem to remember a post (awhile ago, from a guy in Ohio?) where the person did mount two batteries in the anchor compartment. Thank you for your response, I really appreciate it. You've certainly raised my level of concern as to where to put the batteries. I already have a 24 volt bow motor, so would like to use it.

[REW]

The performance issues, that he is referring to - is the additon of 130 lbs to the very front of a boat - that is already on the verge of being bow heavy.
A great boat - with the weight distribution the way it is - or even better if more weight is added to the stern. However, if you add weight to the bow - you get into a serious bow heavy, and plowing condition by adding this much weight to the narrow bow.

Take care
REW

p.s.
Just go to your favorite tackle store and get a 25 foot fiberglass pan fish rod for $10.
First use this as a push rod, to push a cord through the gunnel, and then use the cord to pull a set of 3-4 gauge wires through the gunnel as well as a pair of 14 gauge wires.
This will allow you to have up to a 24 volt trolling motor battery in the bow, and an independent set of power to a depth finder in the bow as well.
When you pull the wires, tie them all together, with electricians tape, after first twisting the first 6 inches of the 5 wires together. Then you only have to make one pull. I generally will pull a 1/8" nylon cord through the gunnels.

Keep the cord in the storage compartment of the boat. If you ever have to pull another wire through the boat - take one of the existing wires, tie it to the cord, and pull the cord back through the gunnel. Then, reattach any new wires to the cord, and pulled wire and pull it back again. Very slick and very simple.

Keep the weight out of the bow, and you will be a much happier boater.

Good luck, and stay - light in the bow!!!

REW

[Scott]

I might be the one you talked to about putting 2 batteries in the front storage. I did it, along with a guest charger, and it's worked out well. I run Lake Erie almost all of my days on the water. I've not had the problem of plowing, mentioned. Not saying it can't happen, but I've not had that problem. In fact, it planes very quickly even with four hunters and decoys and a boat blind. If I put the motor in the completely down position, it does effect performance, but I've yet to have a boat that didnt' (I've owned three glass center consoles, and a 20 foot bass boat). With the power trim up slightly, my cupped three blade prop does a fine job on erie. Any more bow lift, and I'd have a hard time reading the swells from my tiller position.

I wired my trolling motor direct without plugs. I could not find a plug that satisfied my concern of handling the amps at full power. The wire I ran from the jumped batteries to the motor are a heavy gauge. I couldn't tell you what the are, except they are the same ones that OMC sent with it's V6 motors to connect the motor to the main battery. They are heavier than the lines used from the MinnKota itself. I put a 50 amp in line fuse at the terminal, just as prescribed by minnkota. You can find them at any marine dealer.

One more thing I'd recomend is a "bounce buster". This is a prop that keeps the trolling motor bracket from bouncing when in the stowed position. Ram makes a nice one. I made a very durable one myself with extension to the floor. Even on rough days on Erie, the motor is rock solid when stowed.

For my bow electronics, I ran a set of wires from the starter battery. No problems with that. It works well.
Good luck.

[guest]

I thought the Alaskans were refered to as the SUV's of the boating world. Used for heavy hauling, etc. How could two batteries weighing 120 lbs. be too much? If you didn't have the batteries up front and had one person sitting up there you're saying the boat would be over-loaded?!! That doesn't make sense. Some other Lunds, like ProV's are heavier by hunddreds of pounds and they wouldn't be over-loaded with two batteries up front-------or a person sitting up there.

[Drift Sock]

I doubt you would want to put the batteries in the very frontmost storage compartment which is under the bow platform. This is what I consider to be the "anchor locker" (although on my 20 Alaskan it does not have a door - it has an open vertical opening through which you can store the anchor, line, chain, etc.) It is too high to put a lot of weight in it.

Rather, I think you would store the batteries in the frontmost floor compartment. This is the logical place, down low yet close to the front where the troling motor will be mounted. You will be able to easily run wires from that compartment to the motor without going through the gunwales. The compartment is big enough for a pair of batteries.

My Alaskan has a 100 lb 4 stroke kicker and is stern heavy because of it. Adding 100 lbs or more at the bow would probably be a good thing. If you have a kicker you will probably have the same result.

GG

[Scott]

I should clarify, I put my two batteries and charger in the locker not the storage under the trolling motor deck. There isn't enough room up there for two batteries...not the size I used anyway. Still,

[REW]

I think that "overloaded" is a relative issue.
Perhaps it will be fine to put a 120 lbs of battery in the very front of the boat. Perhaps it will be fine to put 200 lbs of person on the very front seat - while underway.

It is my belief, however, that the ride will be much better, the boat will pound much less, the the ride will be dryer for all of the occupants - if this weight is moved aft - while underway in heavy seas. The bow will be lighter, the bow will be able to be higher and will be better able to deflect those wave, that might other wise cause the boat to pound, and cause waves to be deflected over the edges.

Better to move a person aft, and have them sit on the floor - rather than make everyone else, as well as the boat uncomfortable - by having a heavy bow - in heavy seas.

Try it - I expect that you will find it to be true.

---
I see it so often on the lakes - where there are three folks in an open boat - sitting on the three seats available in the boat - rear, middle and bow -and getting their teeth knocked out, as they traverse the water. Then I see the identical boat - with two folks sharing the same middle seat - or middle seating posiiton, and having a relatively smooth ride. Makes sense to me.

Take care
REW