Rigging Idea for Battery Mounting

[PRD1]

I have a Lund 1775 ProV Tiller. The trolling motor battery compartment in the boat is at the rear of the front casting platform. The batteries were mounted centered in a rather large storage compartment with the lid (12X24) just over the batteries and wasted space on either end of this compartment. I originally moved the batteries back under the platform to free up this space for storage but getting the batteries in and out was a pain. Came up with the idea of using a RigRite trolling motor mount ($32 at fleetfarm) and securing the battery tray to this, with a little work I now have a pretty neat arrangement to slide the batteries in and out with no hassle and it's a solid mounting system. If there is any interest I can provide more details.

Paul

[Honest John]

I am interested in more details. Sounds interesting.

[PRD1]

Honest John,

In addition to the above you will probably need to make a couple alteratons to the RigRite bases.
1. They use a thumb screw to secure the base to the sliding piece. If it is not in the right place you will need to drill a 1/4' hole and tap it so you can put this thumb screw in an accessable position.
2. They use a heavy set screw as the stop for the mount. It extends through the unit and would interfere with battery tray. Either cut it off, grind it off or put in a shorter screw.
3. Securing the tray to the bracket can be done in numerous ways, heavy pop rivtes, stainless steel bolts either with nuts on the bottom or tap the base and screw them in. If you use nuts on the underside of the plate make sure there is clearance above the base mounting screws.

Just secure the base to the floor with heavy staniless steel screws, slide the base as modified above and with the battery tray and you are in busines.

The whole deal would cost about $40 for a the Rig Rite base and tray per battery.

Paul

[fatboy]

PRD1 I must ask why you would be taking the batteries in and out in the first place ? I only ask this because I am thinking that I may have to slide the the trolling motor batteries in my boat back under as you did to allow some room for some things and I'm thinking that other than changing batteries(no more than every two years I hope) I should not ever need to be taking them in and out.

[REW]

I am with you on this one.
I also, see no reason to move a battery except during times of maintenance or replacement. This would normally be in the two to three year time frame.

As far as storing any thing else in a compartment, where batteries are stored; is a pretty bad idea.

All sorts of issues with spilled acid, hydrogen gassing off during charging etc. Not a good idea to have ANYTHING in a battery compartment - except batteries.

If a person, puts a separate lid on a compartment, with a nice tight divider between the batteries, and anything else in the adjacent compartment, is probably all right.

Take care
REW

[JohnF]

I agree with this. The outgassing is actually pretty corrosive. If you want to do this get a recombinant gas (RG) type battery. (gell cell or AGM)

Definately don't put something metal in there that could bounce around and short a battery. This could spell disaster.

If you are thinking RG batteries in protective boxes; well, I would do that.

John

[PRD1]

I do usually leave them in the boat even over winter. The real issue was saving the space, they are sealed maintenance free batteries (Stowawy Tournament 900) and I use the area for temporary storage like lunch, life jackets etc. Been doing it for a few years with no ill effects. As it was I could not get the batteries back under the floor far enough to free up the space and still be able to secure the batteries. Just finished this up last night and it worked well but takes some care dressing the wiring so they slide in and out OK.
I wish Lund had just put made the door/hatch on this compartment full width or added smaller hatches on either side.

Paul

[perchjerker]

While we are on the subject of safe battery storage, you should always install covers on you battery terminals incase something metal gets dropped on them. You will need them for a USCG inspection sticker as well.