Rod Guide Repair Question

[Rick-Wy]

Rod is not an upper end rod and somewhat old at that, but the third guide from the tip broke off and I would like to fix it.

The rod guides appear to be available from Cabela's in their tacklecraft catalog.

Not intereseted in a back to original fix, but would like a reasonable looking fix.

Obviously not a rod builder with any of the tools or accessories.


Questions:

1. With a new guide and thread and some epoxy I expect to be able to repair it. But, how do I get off the existing wraping and clear coat over it to go back to the same location?

2. I assume that any nylon thread would work? I have access to an upholestry shop that should have what color(s) I need.

[D189]

Rick,
Carefully cut through the finish on the bad guide with a sharp exacto knife. It will peel off once you cut through it. Unwind the old thread and remove damaged guide. If you are getting your new guide from Cabela's, order a spool of matching thread. If the existing thread appears fine, order size A, if it is course, order size C. Have them send you a packet of rod finish, its two part epoxy in a little paper packet, directions are on the back. The whole job will cost you a couple dollars. E-mail me if you need any other help.

[Harv]

Use a razor blade.& do the cutting directly on the guide foot-this will insure that you will not harm the blank.Unravel the thread ,clean the area with rubbing alcohol. Hold the new guide in place with a couple thin strips of masking tape,then wrap the thread. Being a freshwater rod,you could get away with 'plain'nylon thread(I sometimes use Rayon thread from the fabric stores).Color preserver is then applied,let dry 24 hrs..then apply finish.

in a "pinch' situation as you seem to be in,you can either forget the color preserver step,or,use clear finger nail polish.

You could also use plain ol' 5 min. epoxy glue for rod finish--I have repaired tons of rods over the years with that epoxy as finish on a guide. Plus,these tips will allow you to get what you need at local stores(maybe with the exception of the guide itself).

If I can be of further help,email me.

Harv

[REW]

Rick,
In addition to the other posts,I suggest the use of heat.
I use a heat gun - run gently around the guide area - until the epoxy is warmed - and relatively hot to the touch. This heat will soften the epoxy and make the guide removal job much easier.

Again, use a razor blade only on the guide side to cut through the thread, and epoxy. With the epoxy first heated, this will go very easy indeed. After pulling the guide loose, unravel the rest of the thread. If you keep the epoxy heated, this is a simple job as well. I then use the razor blade - perpendicular to the blank and use it to scrape the rest of the epoxy off the blank and insure that the finish is smooth.

Tape the new guide in place with a narrow piece of masking tape.
Use nylon guide thread to wrape the guide back on - taking off the tape at the end of the guide as the thread comes near the tape. Finally finish off with matchhing trim thread to match the rest of the guides - if installed.

Finally top with guide cement / epoxy - or if you don't have that - use 2 hour epoxy.

Again, after applying the guide cement, I use the heat gun again, to flow out the epoxy. The heat thins the epoxy, lets it really penetrate the thread, and insure an excellent bond to the rod. Obviously - the rod needs to be turning all the time, when the epoxy is drying to keep the epoxy from puddling on one side of the rod.

This is why some folks will use 5 minute epoxy for the thread coating simply because they don't have a rod turning capability. The job won't be quite as nice, but will be adequate, and you can turn the rod in your hand as the glue cures to keep the glue from puddling on one side of the rod.

Take care

REW

[Rick-Wy.]

Thanks to all.

[dunns]

bring it to thorne bros in fridley mn.