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john
05-20-2003, 08:09 AM
I haven't done anything with my boat & motor yet this spring because I,ve been turkey doodling the month of May.I winterized it myself last fall & like i was told to do I removed the plugs & sprayed fogging oil in the plug holes, turned the flywheel by hand to lube the cylinders & put the plugs back in for the winter.The shop I bought my boat at has always winterized my boat & motor & they always put new plugs in for a ridiculous price. I thought I would buy 2 new plugs but I don't know if I should put them after I try to burn the fogging oil off with the old plugs in there & then put the new ones in our what.Also the dealer recommended using tuner spray in the spring but some people I,ve talked to sain you don't need it.Any other advice about spring start up would be appreciated.

VMS
05-20-2003, 08:43 AM
I'd Buy the plugs, and replace them AFTER you have started the motor and burned all the fogging oil out. Even though the plugs are inexpensive for your motor, it would be money wasted if the fogging oil burning fouled a new plug. Burn first, then replace. That way, the motor gets new gas soon, brand new plugs, and it's ready to go for the season.

Steve

Box
05-20-2003, 09:01 AM
BTW - I have another thread about my 25 hp evinrude, down several pages.

Anyway, I changed the plugs and put new gas in mine and it worked wonders. I would do the plugs after the fogging is burned out, as mentioned.

I am getting a beep at times, I think the temp warning, at idle speeds. I bought a new impellor and will change this weekend. Any advice? I have to do it in the lake (on shore of course) cause mine is on pontoon and I have no trailer and there are no accesses on the lake that I can easily use. I am told it is easy to do, as long as the shaft gets lined up properly going back in.

Could a very small leak in fuel line possibly cause an overheat alarm, if not enough fuel (versus air) was getting into the engine? I was told that could be part of my problem, since the bulb gets soft after awhile of trolling.

Thnaks,
-Box

Bret N
05-20-2003, 11:52 AM
I would change the impellor first, especially if it has either never been changed or hasn't been done in several years. It's not a hard job at all. The hardest part it getting it back together and really the only tricky think is the shift linkage.

If you are doing it on the water, I would either do it while its on a lift or push the back end of the pontoon up on shore so the motor is in little or no water. Place the motor into forward and remove the lower unit bolts (there's 4 on my 9.5 Johnson) Then loosen or remove the shift linkage screw. You should now be able to remove the whole lower unit and work on it in an area away from the water. You then remove the impellor housing (4 more screws on mine). Remove the old impellor (on mine there is a small pin that holds the impellor in place on the drive shaft be careful not to lose that). Install the new impellor and reintall everything else. the trickiest part is getting the shift linkage back in place. Took me about an hour total to replace $13 impellor. Now that I have an idea of what to do, it wouldn't take more than a half hour. Hope that helps. Bret

Box
05-20-2003, 12:30 PM
Thanks tons Bret!

I did get another "key" with the impellor, that locks it, but I will save the old one too. Your description fits the diagrahm I got, and that makes me feel better :)

I should be able to do it over shore, or at worst in 3 inches of clear water, with clean sand bottom - then work on lower unit on a table.

Thanks!
-Box