Slip Bobber Advice

[Tenessee Jed]

Just wanted to see if you could give me some suggestions on some slip bobber rigs, since I have never used them before.

I am going after walleyes anywhere from 20-25' deep that are very structure oriented. I use baitcast tackle with 10# Spiderline Fusion. What size leader, weights, and bobber would you use? What particular tactics would you employ for setting up and presentation? I don't think I can use leeches, as they are not readily available in my area (Arkansas).

Thanks!

[BD]

Slip bobber rigs are easy when you start using them and get accustomed to them. I use 6 lb. test Maxima Chameleon mono. First thing on the line is a bobber stop. I use the "dog bone" style stops and they should work with the fireline also. Next put on a small bead even if the bobber has a bead at the the top of the line guide. Then comes the bobber. One about 1" diameter will hold up two #5 split shot. The two shot will get your bait into the 20' to 25' depths in a few seconds. Next put on another small bead. This will keep the bobber from sticking onto the small swivel that is put on next. Only a leader of 12" to 18" and a hook to finish off the presentation. If you can't find leeches minnows are great on this setup. Have fun!

[Bob "Kaz" Kaczkowski]

The up-coming issue of the Walleye Central Magazine will have a great slip bobber technique article in it. The magazine will be available at the end of the month. Make sure you subscribe. Where do you do your Arkansas walleye fishing?

Bob "Kaz" Kaczkowski
Walleye Central Editorial Director

[Norb]

I learned several trick about slip bobbering from my previous guiding years and have use them with great success on the tournament trail. If you can find a telescopic spinning rod-8 to 9ft (Rick Olson and I designed one for Bass Pro Shop) it works great for casting and hookset...I use the solar colored high vis line because now you can see where you line is when setting the hook and netting the fish...on this line goes a pretied knot, bead, bobber and then a good ball bearing swivel. Onto the swivel I tie on about a 3 or 4 foot piece of clear florocarbon line with a couple of split shots and a 1/16 or 1/32 jig to balance out the bobber so it just floats. I recommend using say 8lb high vis and 6lb florocorbon, so that when you do get snagged up you only lose the clear line and the jig and you can retie and be back in business in no time. It is a simple and fun way to catch fish...

Norb Wallock

[Riceburner]

When anchored, and wondering how far off the bottom the hook is riding over some structure-make a trial cast to the top of the structure with an ice fishing depth finder clipped to the hook--the bobber will sink-but you'll likely still be able to see how far it is below the surface--this will be your distance off the bottom with bait...good way to "feel" the structure by dragging the sinking bobber back to the boat--you can find where the drop-off is located.

[TLY]

Jed (Clemapert?)
One more bit of advice that applies is the choice of slip bobber. I generally use the foam bobber which you can twist on/off. This gives you greater flexibility in rerigging without having to cut or anything. Can go from slipbobber to bottom bouncer in moments.

I also prefer the dogbone type stoppers but sometimes need to be careful because the new small line diameters cause slippage. But in any case an extra twist os so is better than the gob of stuff that tends to catch cottonwood seed and almost anything else floating around.

TLY

[TLY]

This last week in Wisconsin the young son and girlfriend of a friend were fishing slipbobbers and without electronics needed to get a fix on bottem. Out comes the ice fishing lead ball. It was put down and continued to sink, and sink and sink. I had just fished with him a couple weeks ago on same point and he remembered it at only 15 ft or so. He stops letting out line and now the reel goes wild.

He begins to retrieve and eventually lands a 24" musky or northern (he's new at this).Measures it, cuts line and a good release.

[vetspet(ind)]

how do you keep the bobber stop from catching the line on a spinning reel when you cast???....i mostly use the little red rubber stops but the pre-tied knots seem to catch the line just as much...are the "dog bone" stops the linear plastic ones with the holes punched into them?...thanks...steve

[BD]

Long time no hear!
The dogbone style look like mini barbells with a hole in each end. The line passes through one hole, is wraped around the bar one and a half times (or more if needed) and goes through the hole on the other end. I've never had trouble with the dogbones hanging up on the guides or spool.

[Tennessee Jed]

Wow! Thanks everyone for the advice! I'm going to be at Bass Pro in Nashville this week, so I'll be looking for the stuff.

We have electronics (Lowrance x-85) and noticed that the fish were tightly packed into just a couple of little spots on the flats. Bottom bouncing worked okay, it just took a little while to get the boat turned around with a stern drive mounted trolling motor (Minn Kota EM 54) and get back to them. Also, I think they get spooked with a couple of 2 oz. bottom bouncers passing through every few minutes. So slip bobbers seemed to be the "stealthy" way to pick up a limit the quickest.

Not that I'm against fishing as opposed to catching--it just gets so hot here after 10 a.m., not to mention the boat traffic.
One thing I never saw much of in my 14 years in Minnesota was pontoon boats. You wouldn't believe how many we have on Greer's Ferry Lake. For some reason or other they just absolutely have to pass between us and the nearest shoreline, instead of going out into the main channel.

Crawdads are available for bait, so I may try those on a single hook. Would two-hook plain (no spinner) crawler harnesses be okay if we used crawlers?

[EAGLE EYES]

Sure, It will work just fine. One more thing: When you're using crawlers, keep the bobber moving and you'll double your strike percentage! Good luck! and may the fish be with you. EE