View Full Version : Lund Transom
Hello Everyone,
I have a 86 Tyee 17ft with a 110 HP. While working on the boat today I noticed 2 cracks in the trim piece that covers the transom. The cracks are right in front of where motor bracketing sits. Almost right above the bolts I notice some of the rivets are missing also. I grabbed the motor and tried to lift it to stress the transom but it seemed tight. I just got the boat this year and I know they weren't there. I'm wondering is this normal on this old of a boat or is there an underlying problem.
Thanks in advance
dbal
I suspect that you are simply seeing somewhat routine wear and tear on your boat.
The fix is rather straight forward.
Drill out all failed or loose rivets.
Before installing new rivets, add an additional stiffing angle bar on the front side of the motor.
If you use a 2"X2" X 1/4 inch thick angled aluminum, that runs from one end of the transom to the other, you can make a substantial difference in the stiffness and strength of the transom.
Also, look under the splash pan, and look at the transom braces that run from the transom - forward to the hull bottom.
Depending on use, and motor, and driving habits - these braces can tear loose or break.
When you are insuring that everything is ok, double check these braces, and repair or replace as necessary.
If you find that you have cracked transom braces, the best thing to do, is to drill out all rivet fastners, order a new heavy duty transom brace and rivet the new brace back in place.
If you still feel uneasy, then have a repair shop fabricate additional aluminum braces for your transom, splash pan and hull bottom.
Cracks mean that your boat has been subjected to excess stressess - over and above the boat design.
Make sure that before leaving your repair, you have added additional bracing. There is a defect - as you currently have your boat.
Another thing to double check - is to call the vendor, and see if there is a retrofit for additional bracing for your particular boat.
Lund and other boat manufacturers are constantly evaluating their designs, receiving field reports etc.
Often when a new boat design comes out, the following year or years, will often have additional braces added, different materials or other manufacturing changes added - to take care of defects found in the field.
Take care
REW
p.s.
Another good thing to check, is to take out one or more of the motor mounting bolts, and use a wire or light or both to try to determine the condition of the transom of your boat.
With a boat of this age, it is not unusual to have the transom filled with dry rot.
If you take out a transom bolt and have water run out - it is likely that you will need to replace the transom board.
Changing out this board is not a big deal, but it does take time patience, and the correct tools.
If you do have to replace the transom board, do it correct, and add any other necessary reinforcements, that I mentioned in the earlier post.
Take care
REW
Thanks for the input. Needless to say when I saw the cracks I got a little worried. I'll check with Lund and see what updates they have.
Thanks
dbal
I found a brace that the rivets popped out of. I'm not sure of the transom board condition. Doesn't look too hard to change. The only obstacle I see are the transom hooks for the tie downs, they look like they bolt in from the inside. And the rear of the gunwhales ovrlap the transom board I'll have to trim them back about 3 inches. I'll still check with Lund for updates. If anyone has any ideas feel free to chime in.
Thanks
fishinnut
10-08-2003, 03:15 PM
If you have to replace the transom board check out this site for an alternative to wood. www.transomrepair.com A little pricey but will never rot again.
Is there any track record on that product. According to the website it will do the job. Just curious if anyone has used it and how well it works.
dbal
fishinnut
10-08-2003, 11:13 PM
They sent me a sample of a cured piece of the product. Really strong stuff and totally waterproof. Never used it myself but this is the type of stuff manufacturers should use in transoms, but probably too expensive for them.
Although this is a "poured product" and probably not suitble for new boat construction; there are other "composite" products that can be purchased.
These composite products have similar characteristics as those noted above, but are available at a lower cost and in "flat board" configurations. These flat board configurations can be easily cut and or milled, in a similar manner of the current plywood, that is used today.
Again, if the cost difference is $50-$200 -- It would seem reasonable that most folks would gladly pay the difference in cost; knowing that they would never have to worry about rot in their transoms.
This brings up the ongoing issue. Why do aluminum or fiberglass boat manufacturers - have ANY wood - in their boats.
With the use of aluminum flooring braces and floor skins, and the use of composite transoms - all wood could easily be removed from aluminum boats.
Then, with the use of composite stringers, braces, and transoms; all wood could be removed from glass boats - as is already the case by some of the glass manufacturers.
It is a real shame to spend much $$$$$$$$$$$$ on a new boat, and then have a pedestal seat get loose, or a motor fall off, due to dry rot of a transom in only a few years.
The average life of boat hulls is about 20 years.
It should not be unreasonable for the floors, and transoms of these same hulls to have a similar life without repair.
Take care
REW
Well now I need a little help. I repaired the brackets and didn't care for the way the transom wood looked. So I looked it over and decided it was a project I could hande. Been in the auto business over 30 yrs and have taken on tougher projects than this. I also learned to asked for advice when needed. I have all the rivets I can see removed as well as all the bolts and misc. hardware. The wood is loose in the center of the transom but is hung up in the corners of the transom. I looked for hours for any additional rivets etc. I'm just not seeing them. Is it posible for the wood to be that swollen. It is tight just like it was bolted down. In the corners there were 4 screws that ran vertical I got all them. I need some ideas. I don't want to make more work or expense for myself. Aside from this little delay this isn't a bad job. I can see where a guy could get good at this after doing a couple. Although I think I'll stick to cars.
Thanks Dave
Tom PP
10-11-2003, 04:09 PM
Sounds like you have the top off the top of the transom. I have heard of others chipping away at the wood and spend hours if not days going at it that way. What I would try is go to Home Depot or where ever and get the biggest and longest screw shanked eye screws you can get. Get a cheap-o Come-O- Long they go for about $12-14 at Menards. Buy some 1/8 inch wire cable and the bolting U shaped crimpers for wire. Put the eye screws ( 2 )in the transom wood at a 45 deg angle loop the wire through and up to the Come-O-Long that is attached to the celling of your garage. Stand in your boat and jack away. If you lift the boat and nothing happens jump a little to see if that helps. Good luck!
fishinnut
10-11-2003, 05:21 PM
I have read where guys use a long drill bit to chew up the wood and vacuum the bits and pieces. The Seacast site explains the procedure for removing the wood. Drain tube probably goes thru wood also.
I used the comealong and then bounced the boat and it came out. I did drill and couldn't see what was holding it in. Turns out the foam for the flotation was hanging it up.. Not a bad job now that I'm this far. I would do this again,, hopefully I'll never have to
Thanks to everyone for there help
Dave
fishinnut
10-15-2003, 04:40 PM
Dave, Do you plan on using the Seacast or are you going to replace the plywood? If you use Seacast please let us know how it works out.
I'm going to use wood. Due to the age of the boat, and the wood I took out probably would have lasted a couple more years I don't think the seacast would be a smart move money wise. My concern with the composite, is it flexible enough to take the stress my motor would exert on it and if not the hull would have to absorb the stress. I did ask if anyone has used the composite any nobody replied. So I thank all the help everyone offered.
Dave
SaskLund
11-07-2004, 07:30 PM
Dbl are you still around?
Brad1
11-08-2004, 04:38 PM
Use XL marine plywood from Greenwood Industries. That is what Grady White uses in their boats. It's guaranteed not to rot.
If I were replacing the wood coring/reinforcement on an aluminum boat, I would opt for marine plywood, not seacast.
I used marine plywood, it turned out great
My hair all stood on end when I read the advice of hooking your lifting come-a-longs to the ceiling of your garage. Then if the transom board did not come right out, jump up and down in the boat to help dislodge it. Holy Mackeral! You are lucky you didn't jerk your trusses down. Sounds like something I would od. I'm gonna save $ 200 by doing it myself. After replacing the transom, and the trusses, and fixed my broken leg and dented head, everything was fine. Be very careful attaching anything really heavy to trusses. They were not designed to sustain a load from the bottom. They are built to hold the roof and the load up. Just my two cents!
SaskLund
11-09-2004, 07:50 PM
DBL
Thanks for the reply. I was just wondering if you would suggest doing the transom again by yourself....
1) Do you feel confident with it?
2) How did you re-rivet the splash well in and stuff?
3) How much do you think you saved?
4) Did you get the wood transom from Lund?
5) How long and what tools are needed for a Transom fix.
6) Do you think it is worth 2500-3000 dollars to get it fixed?
Thanks!
MP
SAGGYS
11-09-2004, 07:55 PM
Boz,
It sounded like the makings of a safety video to me also!I'm glad it worked for you dbal.
It sounds worse than it was. I've seen guys jerk car motors on those things and I was no where near the weight that a car engine is. It went pretty smooth. Anyway the repair went pretty smooth for the first attempt. The cost was about 200.00 I used marine plywood cost of 65. bucks. I got all I needed out of that sheet. If you follow the thread and look at REW's replies you shouldn't have to hard of a time. I feel very cofident the repair is sound. The drain holes come in two pieces per side and there is a special tool needed to reinstall them. The guy that replaced the drain holes seemed to think it was a good repair. I fish the Petenwell here in central Wi. it gets real nasty and I have no problems running out there.
Good Luck
Dave