Home Grown Tackle:The Wonderful World of Jig's
 

I see allot of people posting questions in regards to tackle use,choice of tackle,and actual construction of tackle.So I thought why not start a specific thread on specific tackle..........

So Here Goes.....................
I'd like to start talking about [COLOR=Red][B]The Wonderful World Of Jig's!!!!![/B][/COLOR]
If your a jig fisherman,someone who pours,paints and ties bucktails,or just constantly find a jig on the end of your line Post up!!!

Post your creations,favorite presentations,plastic trailers,scenarios for use...........ect..........

I'm no builder by any stretch but I dig Jig's!!!

Post up questions,pictures,and any comments you may have on the wonderful world of JIG fishing......

thanks for looking!!

[COLOR=Red][B]Hey Folks heads up here this was for instructional purpose only no buying or selling is permitted by anyone on the WC forums![/B][/COLOR]

[B]THANKS!![/B]
FC :thumbsup:

Great way to kill the cold months. We poured 400 ball head jigs in one weekend. I started out with an empty plano box and ended the weekend with a full sauger box ready for anything. I'm at work now but I'll have to post up some pictures of the main ones we did. They weren't anything special. I spend more time working on bass jigs than anything.

I found that store bought jigs were #1. Pure Junk (thin wire hooks, bad paint, etc) #2. to expensive and #3. both to expensive and cheaply built.

I have a friend who is a Gamakatsu Pro and he turned me on to their hooks. He makes his own jigs and has modified the mold with a Dremel Tool to add an extra "ring" to the collar of the jig to hold the plastics.

I take the raw jigs and powder paint them myself as well as tie my own hair jigs.

These things are AWESOME. My hook-ups have drastically improved. The paint stays on after a day of rocks and abuse. No more junk jigs coming back with bent/broken hooks and missing paint.

Also these are in a wide gap version which I really prefer. I was skeptical at first using a 3/0 and 4/0 wide gap hook but after a season of use let me tell you. WOW, I'm convinced.

The only down side is these hooks are sharp and hook EVERYTHING. So if you are in snaggy stuff, be prepared. However the extra strong wire allows me to usually pull my hooks free of whatever snag I've caught.

The white jigs are 3/8oz and you'll see the hooks aren't terrible bad comparatively but they still aren't great.

The orange/yellow jigs are 1/8oz. You'll see the hooks on the store bought versions are thin junk.

I might have to give those a look. I'm not a huge fan of the aberdeen 90* jig heads myself. I use to like using those max gap hooks.

What can drive many of us to pour our own jigs is that the conventional wisdom (mindset) of the commercial world appears to be that fishermen need a larger hook as the weight increases; conversely that the hook size must be smaller as the weight decreases. I am led to believe this is a factor of manufacturing pour-ability /satisfactory yield, that it just results in larger batch usability (sell-ability).

I frequently prefer a large hook size on smaller, lighter heads, because smaller heads are not always used for small fish, but slower sinking is sometimes desired. To create even lighter heads with size 1- 3/0,4/0 hooks, I melt tin rather than lead. It works very well and the result is a light weight with a somewhat larger profile, and a slower sinking presentation. When fishing deeper water, I use a sinker 2' above the jig to get it down to the bottom, and awareness of same.

Some minor modification of a mold may be required to achieve the described desired end result.

Bill Krejca

Just started pouring my own last year. Mostly because of the price of jigs. I have one mold and am experimenting with paint.

Some like the thin hooks, many times when snagged you can just pull the hook straight and retrieve the jig, re bend the hook and your back fishing.

Might depend on line strength and what your fishing too.

I like longer shanked hooks like the Northland Shiner jig, unfortunately they're not made anymore (I believe) so I cast my own.

I'll use whatever good quality hooks I can fine with the longest shank, gamakatsu work, but so do several other brands I've tried.

Key is use a hook size to match the bait I'm planning on using.

Al

[QUOTE=Wade B AKA: Ruger2506;1370514]I found that store bought jigs were #1. Pure Junk (thin wire hooks, bad paint, etc) #2. to expensive and #3. both to expensive and cheaply built.

I have a friend who is a Gamakatsu Pro and he turned me on to their hooks. He makes his own jigs and has modified the mold with a Dremel Tool to add an extra "ring" to the collar of the jig to hold the plastics.

I take the raw jigs and powder paint them myself as well as tie my own hair jigs.

These things are AWESOME. My hook-ups have drastically improved. The paint stays on after a day of rocks and abuse. No more junk jigs coming back with bent/broken hooks and missing paint.

Also these are in a wide gap version which I really prefer. I was skeptical at first using a 3/0 and 4/0 wide gap hook but after a season of use let me tell you. WOW, I'm convinced.

The only down side is these hooks are sharp and hook EVERYTHING. So if you are in snaggy stuff, be prepared. However the extra strong wire allows me to usually pull my hooks free of whatever snag I've caught.

The white jigs are 3/8oz and you'll see the hooks aren't terrible bad comparatively but they still aren't great.

The orange/yellow jigs are 1/8oz. You'll see the hooks on the store bought versions are thin junk.[/QUOTE]

Can these be made in 3/8th ounce ?

The white ones are 3/8oz. I do these is both 3/0 and 4/0 hooks.

Home Grown
 

Here's a typical flat head jig that I make for river fishing. This is 1/4oz. with a #1 Gamakatsu hook tied with Bucktail and some flash. The meat and potatoes is in the stinger. #12 Gamakatsu treble and 10lb AFW 7-strand stainless wire crimped with #0 sleeves and shrink tubed on the ends. That stainless wire is thinner than 10lb mono and tooth resistant as well.