Replacing Wood Floor in Boat
 

Is there a lot of difference between Wolmanized and Marine Plywood other than price ? What's the best thickness to be using ? 17 footer

RE: Replacing Wood Floor in Boat
 

I used 1/2" treated plywood that I bought at Lowes lumber 5 years ago and its holding up fine after countless soakings. My only problem is that the carpet is starting to come up but after the abuse its taken over the last few years I'll just replace it. Putting a new floor in my starcraft was a real pain becouse it was rivetted in place (looked like particle board) and all of rivit stems had to be ground flush with the stringers. You should use stainless screws in my opinion to fasten the new flooring in. After everything I ended up with a solid floor and it was worth the hassle.

RE: Replacing Wood Floor in Boat
 

i'd use 3/4" marine plywood. 1/2" is too lite and the treated plywood won't last in a boat. mike

RE: Replacing Wood Floor in Boat
 

Thanks you two ..... all useful.

I will use stainless with 3/4 Marine ....... a good glue.

RE: Replacing Wood Floor in Boat
 

I redone a lund one time using 3/4 inch marine plywood. It added alot of weight to the boat. If I done it again I'd go 1/2.

Also it may depend on the size motor and boat as to how it may effect performance.

Mine at the time was a 18 ft with a 50 four stroke.

RE: Replacing Wood Floor in Boat
 

Orange Whip: Thanks for that post ..... I don't like adding more weight than needed, I'll study more - maybe something inbetween the 3/4 and 1/2". A sheet of 3/4 is a lunker, but at the same time you need strength.

RE: Replacing Wood Floor in Boat
 

I help my bro put a new floor in his Rebel with all new carpet and we used regular 1/2" plywood and fiberglass resin coated it all then drilled and stainless screwed, with silicone sealant in each hole, to the aluminum ribs. Spray adhesive and premium red outdoor carpet made for a nice look and it is lasting well.
The original floor lasted 12 years because it was stored outside no cover no protection.
This floor has been in now for 9 years and the guy that bought it tells us it is still very solid and he stores it outside no cover to this day.

We pulled all the wood out first before getting any materials and it was 1/2" plywood we removed so that is the thickness we put back in.
We used the removed peices or what was left of them for templates for the new pattern.

In an aluminum boat the edge of the wood was cut at the same angle as the hull so fit the peices very carefully and cut to the largest size before beveling the edge to give it a custom fit.
We used a jigsaw cut out and bevel the edges.

Good luck on your project.

PS: If there is something you do not like about your boats layout or livewells, baitwells, and such now is the time to change it or add new features.


Pitts

RE: Replacing Wood Floor in Boat
 

I'm 6'6" tall and tip the scales at 245 and I can't make the floor bounce in my boat with 1/2" the long. stringers in my starcraft were 18" apart. The original floor was 1/2 and it lasted for 18 years if I get that much service out of it I'll be happy, if you go with 3/4 your probably going to have a tough time fitting the edges.. I also have a 18 footer with only a 50 merc and every pound makes a difference when it comes to w.o.t. speed. While you have the floor up its a good idea to change everything that gets covered by it and redo the live wells etc. I filled every void with blue dow board from lowes also, it made the boat a lot quieter when running.

RE: Replacing Wood Floor in Boat
 

PITS & BRIDGEMAN1: Appreciate you takingt the time to reply - I'm agreeing that 3/4 isn't the way to go ... all useful information.

Thanks again !

RE: Replacing Wood Floor in Boat
 

I agree with the other poster. I've done this a few times before for myself and friends, and learned this technique from a professional at a trade show. Standard wood, with a fiberglass resin coating. I did two coats, stainless screws, and popped in a bit of sealant in each screw hole. Don't use a hardening sealant, just in case that floor need to come out again. Keeps that wood nice and water tight. Also roughed up the resin coat, lightly, on the carpet side with some fine grade sandpaper. Cleaned it down good, and layed the adhesive. I think it gives the adhesive better bite on the plywood. That may not be a neccessary step, but what the heck. Just don't go through the resin back to the wood!. Anyways, we did one 9 years ago that's still in service, and the carpet hasn't some up either. It can be a weekend project, takes some patience. BTW, I use that same process for replacing bunk boards/guide ons too, but carpet gets staples too.

Chris