Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryno78
Hawker:
I was going to get the Blue Sea Systems 6 circuit fuse block rated for 30 amps. I haven't worked through the total max amp draw because my boat is in storage and I don't have all the details related to bilge model, etc. However, I was going to rig the fuse box to include three 3 amp fuses (stern depth finder, standard navigation lights, + one extra spot for the bow depth finder I plan on adding), two 5 amp fuses (bilge pump + one extra spot), and one open spot. I've looked at various bilge pumps on line and think a 5 amp will cover me and I'm confident that the 3 amp fuses will be sufficient for the lights and depthfinders.
So in total I think I'm looking at a max of 15 amps. Thanks for the voltage drop calculator! I'll give it a shot.
Ryan
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Ryan,
Sorry for the delayed response, here goes.
Blue Sea Systems makes nice panels. I'd use part # 5025 or #5030. AWG 8 gauge to battery. I also used a 30amp fuse right at the battery before going to the panel. This protects against the odd chance that you get a chafing of the cable somewhere. here is the link for the fuse holder:
http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/FHA.pdf
I would not wire your graphs through this panel. Graphs are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations and interference. Run them separately. I use a single #10 AWG to battery and then split to bow and console. I fuse it at the battery using a waterproof blade fuse holder (above) big enough for both locations simultaneously. Place a waterproof connector like this at the battery so you can pull power from graphs totally if you want.
http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Pr...px?pc=12015799
I use these for every connection on my boat. They are weatherproof and easy to install by hand. As said above, look at your amperage requirements. Most of what you have takes very little. Bilge pumps and live well pumps are pretty light and you could easily use a #14 AWG. I don't use anything under #14. unless it's very short runs. Voltage drops on small gauge wire at distance so I keep small gauge wire for short 2-3 foot runs.
Other than that, also use heat shrink tubing con all connections and solder as many as you can. This will insure that they are moisture free and vibration resistant. Those are the 2 big issues with boat electrics.
I also use wire loom for everything. Be very careful running wire through holes and around corners. Wire will be subject to lots of vibration and the chances of it cutting the insulation are pretty good. Thats why I use wire loom or convoluted tubing. You can buy it at any hardware store or radio shack. Cheap insurance and it makes you r install look professional.
here are links for the tubing:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103809
It comes in sizes from 1/4" to 3".
Good luck......