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  #11  
Old 06-17-2012, 07:05 AM
Bill Krejca Bill Krejca is offline
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Re: Kinking wire to prevent lead sliding - In case you forgot to kink the wire before pouring - It is a simple matter to just put a slight bend in the wire above and below the lead, which will keep the lead from moving.

Re: Heating the mold - I prefer to preheat most molds before pouring with most inserts in. I do this by just pouring the lead into the cavities, leaving out the insert for 3 or 4 pours, whether the insert be a hook or some type of wire form. I like to not only fill all the cavities, but also run a continuous bead of lead over the entire top of the mold, connecting the cavity pours. I'd rather not use a torch or other heat source, in my mind I'd feel uncomfortable that the mold maybe could get warped - this is probably just me, I have no experience of warping actually happening.

Bill
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  #12  
Old 06-17-2012, 08:10 AM
2XL 2XL is offline
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I have one mold that I'm pretty sure got warped due to over heating. It's one of the first DO-IT molds I bought years ago. Being beginner and all gung ho I hammered out a TON of jigs one day and the mold got really hot. Next time I used that mold the jigs came out with a slight seam on them where the mold halves meet. It was very slight but for sure the mold did/does not line up like it did when I first bougt it. I assumed it was from the mold getting so hot but maybe it was something else?
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  #13  
Old 06-18-2012, 09:56 AM
perchjerker perchjerker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishincrazy View Post
That sounds like a plan I was also thinking I've got a coleman single burner I could fire up and lay the mold across it to keep it warm.I'm looking forward to pouring.I did have a question about weight placement on the wire I was thinking on a 10" wire I would want the weight to be centerd at like 3" from bend?Does this sound right?

Thanks again JJ!!!!!

FC
dont use a coleman burner

if you overdo it you could warp the mold

just lay the mold on top of your lead pot.

It doesnt have to be that hot to get good results
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  #14  
Old 06-18-2012, 07:31 PM
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fishincrazy fishincrazy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perchjerker View Post
dont use a coleman burner

if you overdo it you could warp the mold

just lay the mold on top of your lead pot.

It doesnt have to be that hot to get good results

Thanks PJ thats what I wound up doing the bottom bouncer mold is different then my jig molds.It took 3-4 dry run pours and I think I only got one full mold not from the lead not pouring but from trying to get the wires to lay in the mold.I figured out I gotta build a jig to hold the wires in place while I close the mold or they move all over the place a total PIA.
I had a couple dozen wires and cast all of them I ordered more and can't wait to cast more.

Thanks
FC
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  #15  
Old 06-18-2012, 08:41 PM
JJ Scully JJ Scully is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishincrazy View Post
Thanks PJ thats what I wound up doing the bottom bouncer mold is different then my jig molds.It took 3-4 dry run pours and I think I only got one full mold not from the lead not pouring but from trying to get the wires to lay in the mold.I figured out I gotta build a jig to hold the wires in place while I close the mold or they move all over the place a total PIA.
I had a couple dozen wires and cast all of them I ordered more and can't wait to cast more.

Thanks
FC
if the wires are sliding down into the mold on you just put a couple of wraps around the wire of blue painters tape it will keep the wires from moving down in. Which size wires did you get I use the .041 and don't remember any problems with them moving around.
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  #16  
Old 06-18-2012, 09:36 PM
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fishincrazy fishincrazy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ Scully View Post
if the wires are sliding down into the mold on you just put a couple of wraps around the wire of blue painters tape it will keep the wires from moving down in. Which size wires did you get I use the .041 and don't remember any problems with them moving around.

I had left over .035 from those cabelas adjustable bottom bouncers I used.I also already ordered .035 wires which should be here any day.My problem wasn't sliding once I got them to stay in the slots it was getting them to stay in the slots.The wire would teter totter and roll our of the slot then I would swear and well you can imagine the rest
I was thinking i need a jig which allows for the mold to lay even with something so the wires can lay flat so when I close the mold it closes 100%.Thanks Scully!

FC
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  #17  
Old 06-19-2012, 05:03 AM
perchjerker perchjerker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishincrazy View Post
Thanks PJ thats what I wound up doing the bottom bouncer mold is different then my jig molds.It took 3-4 dry run pours and I think I only got one full mold not from the lead not pouring but from trying to get the wires to lay in the mold.I figured out I gotta build a jig to hold the wires in place while I close the mold or they move all over the place a total PIA.
I had a couple dozen wires and cast all of them I ordered more and can't wait to cast more.

Thanks
FC
sounds like you are trying to do more than one bouncer at a time?

I only do one at a time, its much easier
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Mary had a little pig,
She kept it fat and mellow.
And when the price of pork went up,
Dad shot the little fellow.

Mary had a little pig.
Her father shot it dead.
Now it goes to school with her,
Between two hunks of bread.
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  #18  
Old 06-19-2012, 05:12 AM
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fishincrazy fishincrazy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perchjerker View Post
sounds like you are trying to do more than one bouncer at a time?

I only do one at a time, its much easier

Yep your right,I found I could do one at a time also.I was thinking what waste a mold with 5 cavities in it when I could only get one at a time to work.

Thanks for the info!There's no place like WC to learn and become a better fisherman!You guy's ROCK!!!!

FC
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  #19  
Old 06-19-2012, 02:46 PM
Bill Krejca Bill Krejca is offline
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A help that I found to prevent misalignment of inserts has been to place next to the opened, flat laying mold some type of spacer which is about the same "thickness" as the mold. For example, a board, book, etc. The item can then support the remainder of the insert which is protruding from the mold. Use of this type of helper usually will prevent most inserts from getting misaligned. You'll have to carefully close the mold while it is still on the flat surface, being careful not to move it around until closed.

Bill Krejca
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  #20  
Old 06-19-2012, 03:21 PM
perchjerker perchjerker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishincrazy View Post
Yep your right,I found I could do one at a time also.I was thinking what waste a mold with 5 cavities in it when I could only get one at a time to work.

Thanks for the info!There's no place like WC to learn and become a better fisherman!You guy's ROCK!!!!

FC
does it have different sizes or are they all the same?

the production molds are all the same size. I would not buy that type
__________________
Mary had a little pig,
She kept it fat and mellow.
And when the price of pork went up,
Dad shot the little fellow.

Mary had a little pig.
Her father shot it dead.
Now it goes to school with her,
Between two hunks of bread.
Reply With Quote
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