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  #11  
Old 07-02-2012, 08:08 AM
Drummer Boy Drummer Boy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Black View Post
Don't use brass it can flake off and get between the race and the hub, use a soft steel bar, the race is hardened so you should be able to damage the race with a steel bar.
Yes never use brass in that situation,but I am wondering did you intend to use the older race again?Never do that, timken bearings wear in, hard to duplicate that.I do use a hot plate to warm up a hub when installing new outer races though makes the job easier.
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  #12  
Old 07-02-2012, 11:02 AM
KRAMER2000 KRAMER2000 is offline
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Put the races in your freezer, or even better dry ice.
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  #13  
Old 07-02-2012, 11:10 AM
Drummer Boy Drummer Boy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRAMER2000 View Post
Put the races in your freezer, or even better dry ice.
Yes that is a even better,we use to order dry ice when replacing shafts on vacuum pump rotors.We kept the shaft in dry ice for 4hours before pressing on.When putting sleeves in gear boxes, I would put the sleeve in a freezer for an hour or so and they would just slide in,surprising how much they shrink the OD.
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  #14  
Old 07-03-2012, 07:00 AM
northernbite northernbite is offline
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They make a race remover kit that is real handy. For years on the farm I used the big socket and the punch. Now I use the race remover, it fits right in there and bam there out. Harbor Freight has them.

Paul
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  #15  
Old 07-08-2012, 08:48 PM
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Thunderbucket Thunderbucket is offline
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Red face Torch or welder

I would weld a bead on the inside of the race , the heat pulls the race in and easily pops out with a heel bar, done alot of planetaries like that. Another way was heat the race rd hot turn it upside down and walk away 15 mins later you hear the race hit the floor after it fell out of the hub, either would work on a tiny trailer wheel hub wouldn't know why there are not slots or a bit of race exposed, get a bigger hammer (5lb mini sleadge) and a hard squared up punch
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