Eagle Trailer - Help!!!

[bcmss396]

I just replaced the master cylinder on my tandem axle Eagle trailer.

When I attempt to adjust the brakes, too the point where the wheels spin freely when the brakes aren't engaged, I'm having trouble on half of the trailer. Specifically, the wheels on the passenger side spin and stop fine, but the drivers side wheels are quite a bit tighter (harder to spin).

I can't figure this problem out. There's no proportioning valve and the only difference I see is that the main hard line runs down the passenger side of the trailer and the drivers side has to cross the axle.

Everything appears to work fine otherwise.

Anyone that has worked with TDE (Tie Down Engineering) brakes cylinders of systems that can help - please offer suggestions.

Blair

[Burr]

2 things come to mind, first is to make sure you have all the air bled out of the system. Second would be (if disc brakes) a bad caliper.

[perchjerker]

Originally Posted by Burr

2 things come to mind, first is to make sure you have all the air bled out of the system. Second would be (if disc brakes) a bad caliper.

I doubt its either.

Since you are adjusting them they have to be drum brakes.

Air in the system wont cause it

My bet is you have a corroded wheel cylinder. Peel the boots back and look for rust.

And try push on the shoes to see if you can move the pistons in and out

Could be a shoe hanging up on the backing plate, there are pads on the plate that the shoes ride on, there might be a groove wore into one, but thats not very common

[REW]

X10 on bad wheel cylinder.

[bcmss396]

Sorry, I should have added more detail.

The trailer is disc brakes on all 4 wheels. I've bled the brakes and when I engage them all 4 wheels stop. When I release pressure the passenger side wheels spin freely and the drivers side seem to have alot of disc brake "drag". They just don't spin the with the same amount of freeplay.

This system is on an Eagle trialer with a Model 70 LP (Low Profile) actuator from TDE. I've seen this coupler/actuator on lots of Lunds and Rangers.

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions.

Blair

[perchjerker]

Originally Posted by bcmss396

Sorry, I should have added more detail.

The trailer is disc brakes on all 4 wheels. I've bled the brakes and when I engage them all 4 wheels stop. When I release pressure the passenger side wheels spin freely and the drivers side seem to have alot of disc brake "drag". They just don't spin the with the same amount of freeplay.

This system is on an Eagle trialer with a Model 70 LP (Low Profile) actuator from TDE. I've seen this coupler/actuator on lots of Lunds and Rangers.

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions.

Blair

ok...your statement about adjusting them is very misleading since there is no adjustment on disc brakes

you probably have a caliper hanging up, either by a sticking piston or the caliper is hanging up on the slides.

to eliminate any question of a actuation problem from the hyds, open the bleeder screw on the caliper thats hanging up. It should not squirt any fluid when you do this, if it does its indicating there is pressure being applied when it shouldnt be.

Thats rare.

Once you rule that out, try pushing the piston back (bleeder closed) in the hanging up brakes. Then try one thats not hanging up. If the the hanging up one is harder than the other to push back, then the piston is sticking in the bore. If it pushing back fine, then push it all the way back into the bore then try to move the caliper on the slides and look for it not moving freely. Its possible that its bound up on the slides.

the principle is the same as on your vehicles front disc brakes.

[JAK]

Originally Posted by bcmss396

Sorry, I should have added more detail.

The trailer is disc brakes on all 4 wheels. I've bled the brakes and when I engage them all 4 wheels stop. When I release pressure the passenger side wheels spin freely and the drivers side seem to have alot of disc brake "drag". They just don't spin the with the same amount of freeplay.

This system is on an Eagle trialer with a Model 70 LP (Low Profile) actuator from TDE. I've seen this coupler/actuator on lots of Lunds and Rangers.

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions.

Blair

I have the same Eagle trailer and the same 70 LP actuator. It is on a tandem axle trailer with 4-wheel discs. The year is a 2003.

http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/c462.pdf


I chased a similar problem around for 1 ½ years with an intermittent brake drag. It all started with a caliper bracket falling off. The bracket and caliper ended up spinning inside of the wheel while traveling 70 mph down the interstate. It obviously wrapped the brake line around the axle and broke it. I lost a good portion of the brake fluid (M/C was dry). I then folded over the broken line and pinched it tight several times so I could complete my trip before attempting perminate repairs. After pinching the line tightly closed I refilled the M/C and finished my trip. When arriving at my destination I still had 2/3 of the brake fluid in the M/C.

Over time I ended up replacing the bracket, caliper, and caliper guides. The problem still persisted. I also had an intermittent problem when backing up the trailer with a tractor even though I was using the “back-up pin” properly installed. While backing, one side of the trailer would lock up. It just made no sense.

I also had the oddball problem with one side of the trailer not completely releasing the brakes. At times they would get warm enough that you could not hold your hand on the wheels. The next time when driving the same road (with the same tow vehicle) they would be completely cool. I could not pattern the problem. I bled the brakes numerous times (about 6 or 7 times) trying to make absolutely certain that there was no air in the system.

I spoke with Tie-Down and the manufacture of the calipers. I replaced brake lines. I was assured based on my symptoms that it was not the M/C.

Finally a year later I noticed a small brake fluid leak at the M/C. This was new and not part of the original problem.

I ordered a new M/C from Tie-Down. When I went to install it, it came with special instructions that it MUST be bench bled before installation. It stated failure to do so may cause erratic brake operation.

I attribute this to the fact that it uses a SECOND piston for a shock dampener. This is different that almost every M/C that I have ever seen. See the link for a clearer explanation and pictures.

Anyway after nearly two years of fighting with the problem, I replaced the master cylinder. So far it has worked flawlessly for 1 ½ years.

I attribute my problems back to when I originally lost all of the fluid. I believe that the shock dampener must have gone partially dry. This contributed to the brakes not releasing completely. I also believe that it caused undue load on the M/C and ultimately caused it to fail and begin to leak.

You may want to be sure that the M/C is properly bled including the shock dampener.

I hope this helps.

…Jim

[bcmss396]

I finally got the trailer brake issues sorted out.

Turns out that the issue was 2 bad calipers on the drivers side of the trailer. My installation of the master cylinder was fine ( I did bench bleed the master cylinder prior to installation).

Also had to replace all the wheel seals and repack the bearings with fresh grease to ensure that my trip to Canada (leaving Thursday) goes well.

Thanks to everyone for the help. I learned alot about these systems and am now better prepared to deal with any future problems.

Blair