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#1
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Just got this boat last weekend, it doesnt have a transom saver on it now, doesnt look like it ever did. The Shorelander trailer it sits on is designed so that the only kind of transom save I could use requires drilling holes in the cross member of the trailer and mounting the bracket on the bottom. There is also a few trailer lights right there and I would rather not drill holes knowing that there are wires inside the cross member there.
the http://www.m-ywedge.com/ will not work on this motor either. The place I purchased the rig from said that I dont need a transom saver, and that I can just flip down the bracket on the motor and trim the motor back down to take the pressure off of the tilt/trim cyclinder. To me, the bracket on the motor seems to do the same thing as the m-ywedge and that I really shouldnt need a transom saver. Am I missing something or does that sound pretty accurate? |
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#2
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Big,
A transom saver is really an option for virtually all boats. It is up to the owner as to whether to use a transom saver on a rig when trailering it. Sort of a good rule of thumb is to have someone else drive along behind or beside the boat when moving the rig. With the motor in the position where you would like to trail it, keep an eye on the motor as it is being pulled down the road. If the motor, in its desired position, is quite stable and not rocking very much, you likely have little need for a transom saver. On the other hand, if you find a lot of motor movement as the rig goes down the road and over bumps with the motor in its desired trailer position, then you likely need a transom saver. The entire reason that I mention the desired trail position of the motor is because many rigs would trail along just fine, if the motor could be moved when they are in the full down position. They would be quite stable and have little flex on the boat. But, many of those same rigs can not be safely trailed in the full down position, due to clearance issues. Then, the other option is to trail the motor in the full tilted up position where some motors have locks on the motor for this very purpose. But if some motors are trailed in this full tilted up position, they end up having quite a flex in the boat and some motors tend to have fluid leaking issues if trailed for a long time in this full tilt up position. So, the choice is up to you. Certainly if the rig is more than a year or so old and has never had a transom saver on it, it is an indication that you likely could continue to trail just fine without the transom saver. But - at the end of the day, you decide what is best for you, your rig and your motor. By the way, there are millions of boats that are trailed every day without the use of a transom saver on their out board motors. There are also many motors that are damaged every year from the use of a transom saver that has either been improper for that particular rig, or the owner is using the transom saver incorrectly, or the rig is not secured correctly on the trailer. There are also millions of boats that are trailed every day with the use of a transom saver on their outboard motors. Be safe REW |
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#3
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Bought a used TP175/F90 a few years ago. On trailering home the transom saver galled up the lower unit pretty good. Decided to switch over to the wedge. Think I used the universal unit. Just cut about an inch off the total length to have it tilt the desired amount for my application. Works good for me.
Had used same on a suzuki 90 previously with good result. |
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#4
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Quote:
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#5
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Here are some pics of the transom saver on my Dominator with a Shorland'r. Was told its the only type that works with this trailer. The holes to mount the bracket were already there. I watched the dealer bolt it on.
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2011 Alumacraft Dominator 185sp 140 Suzuki.HDS 5&7 with Structure Scan 80lb Terrova with Ipilot |
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#6
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As always, I am............... walleyed |
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#7
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Locks and wedges take stress off the motor hydraulics, but they don't do anything to stabilize any transom flex. That's why they call them transom savers, and not motor savers.
I have the same combination here. Quote:
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This place stinks now. |
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#8
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Quote:
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#9
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There are no pre-drilled holes on my trailer. The tailer I have does look identical though, do the bolts go all the way thru the cross bar and and the black plastic hull protector (not sure what that piece is called) or do the holes just go thru on the bottom side of the cross member and the bracket attached with self tapping bolts?
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#10
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Just crawled under the trailer to look for ya. They just used the same bolt that holds on the bumper pad above the center light.That bolt goes all the way through on mine and the bumper on the other cross member. There are two holes in the bracket. They used the one thats not centered. The bracket has a large back flange that pushes against the cross member when pressure is applied from the rod. Only one bolt holds it on. Hope this helps.
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2011 Alumacraft Dominator 185sp 140 Suzuki.HDS 5&7 with Structure Scan 80lb Terrova with Ipilot Last edited by itsagr8day4fishing; 07-20-2012 at 03:06 PM. |
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