Lund Sport Trak

[3 Z's]

Any Lund owners using sport trak with a cleat for anchor rode? Would like to be able to vary my anchor tie position, thought this might be the ticket?

[REW]

I think it would be a bad plan.
REW

[3 Z's]

Thanks. My new Lund has the front cleats about 1/4 of the way back from the bow. Just spent 4 days on Winnebago in WI, 2 days with 4ft+ waves. Had a difficult time keeping the bow into the wind, always wanted to turn sideway due to cleat location. Any suggestions?

[Hot Runr Guy]

I added a cleat to the bow platform for that very reason.

HRG

[Wall-i-Lama]

Originally Posted by 3 Z's

Thanks. My new Lund has the front cleats about 1/4 of the way back from the bow. Just spent 4 days on Winnebago in WI, 2 days with 4ft+ waves. Had a difficult time keeping the bow into the wind, always wanted to turn sideway due to cleat location. Any suggestions?

Run the anchor rope thru the front eye on the bow, then to the cleat. Cleat holds the boat, front eye holds the boat straight.

[scottyb]

Interesting thread. I wouldnt recommend using sport track for a cleat, I think there is way too much pressure on an anchor rope. Currently have a 2010 Pro Guide with 2 cleats on each side, which is pretty much standard on most makes and models. The next boat I order will have 2 additional cleats on each side, I believe Lund will do that at the factory. My last boat was a 1900 Pro V tiller with 9 cleats placed around the boat. Wow, was that ever nice. Its amazing how well you can position and reposition just by moving cleat locations(if they are available)

Scotty b
NPAA #665

[PG1725]

Attach anchor to bow eye and tie loop in main anchor rope about 6' - 8' from bow eye. Attach smaller rope to loop and then to cleat with some slack for boat to move. Then you can have the weight of the boat on bow eye and pull smaller rope to retrieve anchor line and not lean over the boat.

[REW]

In addition to what PG said,
Tie a loop in your anchor rope about 10 feet down from the end of the anchor rope. Put a snap in the end of the anchor rope and use the snap to attach to the bow eye of the boat. Then, put about a 15 foot rope in the loop that you have tied to the anchor rope. If you want to anchor straight off the bow, just drop the anchor and let out anchor, leaving the 15 foot rope slack, but tied off to a bow side cleat. When, it comes time to retrieve the anchor, just pull up the side rope until you get to the main anchor, and then pull up the anchor rope, tying the anchor rope off tight to a cleat to keep the anchor rope from catching the water as you move from spot to spot or return home. i.e. no need to snap and unsnap your bow anchor connection, until you load your trailer.

In the main time, lets say that you are anchored up on a point but want to move to a different spot on the point. All that you have to do, is to take the 15 foot rope and shorten it up a bit for either the port or starboard side, and refasten to the appropriate bow cleat. The shorter anchor rope, will then angle the bow into or away from the wind and cause the boat to swing on the anchor.

I really think that you are already set with anchor points for your boat; You just have to make a small modification in your anchor connection and add an extra rope to your anchor collection to give you total anchor control.

Be safe
REW

[Eric_CO]

Probably would break the plastic clips that slide into the sport trak.

I broke one off grabbing a rod that was snagged, perhaps a bit over zealous but there was some adrenaline involved.

[Kris_2020]

I would suggest rope grippers at the bow. I have 2 at the front and they work great. No need to tie the rope and they grip the rope very well