Great transom saver

[Superfishman186]

Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy

I don't know exactly what engine fishnutbob has, but when in doubt, consult your owners manual. The info below is from the Yamaha F150 owners manual. Note the words "transom saver bar".

HRG

That is almost exactly what my mercury manual says as well.

[Mpower]

Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy

I don't know exactly what engine fishnutbob has, but when in doubt, consult your owners manual. The info below is from the Yamaha F150 owners manual. Note the words "transom saver bar".

HRG

from their website...note the yamaha device they refer to is a wedge. but like others mentioned, their interest is in protecting the motor, not necessarily the transom. But then again many peoples motors are worth more than their hulls...Correct me if i wrong (i'm certainly not an expert), but the transom saver bar does not actual distribute any of the motor load to the trailer. The entire motor weight is still on the transom. The transom saver just distributes the shock from movement to the trailer. but isn't the reverse true...wouldn't a bouncing trailer transfer shock directly to the motor, which also isn't a good thing?

[Hot Runr Guy]

Originally Posted by Mpower

from their website...note the Yamaha device they refer to is a wedge. but like others mentioned, their interest is in protecting the motor, not necessarily the transom. But then again many peoples motors are worth more than their hulls...Correct me if i wrong (i'm certainly not an expert), but the transom saver bar does not actual distribute any of the motor load to the trailer. The entire motor weight is still on the transom. The transom saver just distributes the shock from movement to the trailer. but isn't the reverse true...wouldn't a bouncing trailer transfer shock directly to the motor, which also isn't a good thing?

Is this directed towards me? In my mind, the hull, motor and trailer frame should be tightly tied together and function as a single unit, allowing the trailer suspension to do it's job. The hull should be secured to the trailer, including a bow strap if necessary to eliminate bouncing. Same thing with the motor, it should be secured to eliminate any rocking that could occur. Personally, I think a lot of people support the motor tilted-up waaaay too high, moving far too much weight forward over the transom. Think about it, the closer to a balance point you get, the better the chance for the engine to rock back and forth.

I use a transom "bar", since in my mind, it provides 3 benefits. 1) it relieves pressure on the T&T hydraulics, and eliminates the possibility of the motor "dropping" in the event of a hydraulic failure. 2) it eliminates the motor rocking back and forth, protecting the transom, and 3) it keeps my tiller-steered motors straight, eliminating the "flop" to one side.

In my mind, the use of a "wedge" protects only the motor hydraulics. I cannot see how it could minimize any chance of the motor rocking the transom back and forth, nor does it provide any means of keeping the motor straight. Certainly, todays transoms are probably a lot stronger than those of years past, thanks to better engineering & materials, FEA analysis, consideration of 600+ pound outboards, jack plates, etc.

I'd ask those who use a "wedge" to try one thing, and see if there is any flex in their transoms while the wedge is in place. My guess is, the wedge has enough give that if you push down on the lower unit, the wedge will flex a bit. If the transom flexes, then the start of glass cracking and seams splitting can't be too far away. I can't remember how long the wedge products have been on the market, but I'd like to inspect the splashwell of a 10 year old hull that gets a few thousand road miles a year on it, and see if there is any damage occurring.

HRG

[oldschooltiller]

I agree with everything Hot Runr Guy just posted.

Also I have to ask


Is it really to much time/work to remove/install a real transom saver?


It takes all of 5-10 seconds (tops) to remove it, and maybe 10-15 seconds tops to install it.

[Brotsky]

Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy

I can't remember how long the wedge products have been on the market, but I'd like to inspect the splashwell of a 10 year old hull that gets a few thousand road miles a year on it, and see if there is any damage occurring.

HRG

HRG....I've used a M-Y wedge on my 1800 Pro-V since 2004. The transom is as solid today as the day I bought it. Not quite 10 years yet but 8 is the best I can do. I put at least 3000 miles per year on the trailer. You may not like it or may prefer something else but the wedge has worked great on my rig and I'll keep using it.

[Superfishman186]

Leave the toilet seat up, leave the toilet seat down, Use a Transom saver, Don't use a transom saver, WHO CARES!! Just go fishing!!!!!!

[Hot Runr Guy]

Originally Posted by Brotsky

You may not like it or may prefer something else but the wedge has worked great on my rig and I'll keep using it.

Brotsky,
I never said I don't like the "wedge", I've only stated what I prefer. When I was shopping for my prior boat, one thing that kept bringing me back to the Lund products was the "braces" that they install in the splashwell, tying the transom to the stringers below. A small detail, sure. But just one more bit of the "engineering" that I referenced earlier. Without looking at a 2004 Lund catalog, I'll bet your Pro-V has them.

Thanks for the feedback.

HRG

[hooky]

Old School,
It really depends on what kind of transom saver you have. It is not fun to get under the motor and twist the end in a small hole. I have the u shaped one that fits over the roller. Hardest work is getting it out of the truck. Waiting for someone to invent a quick set up like the automatic straps on the rear of the trailer.