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1997 Lund Adventurer Transom Rot - Walleye Message Central
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  #1  
Old 08-16-2012, 08:05 PM
Jimmy44 Jimmy44 is offline
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Default 1997 Lund Adventurer Transom Rot

Can anyone help me? I recently noticed that my transom is going to need to be replaced. My motor mount bolts were loose and when I tightened them the transom squished together slightly and the cover plate on the top of the transom lifted and alot of the screws came out and can't be tightened. This is why I think it is going to need to be replaced. Is it hard to do? Can I maybe do it myself or should I take it to a professional to get replaced?
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  #2  
Old 08-16-2012, 08:25 PM
REW REW is offline
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You can do anything that you put your mind to.
Folks put the boat together, so folks like you can do it again.

As follows:
1. remove motor
2. Remove transom top cap
3. Remove all screws, braces etc. that are connected to the wood portion of the transom.
4. use a chisel or similar to get the transom board out of the layers of aluminum.
5. Try to keep the wood as intact as possible so that you can use it for a transom board pattern.
6. Cut or buy a new transom board, insure that it matches the original board.
7. Insure that the board is well sealed.
8. Insert the board, repeat the removal process and go fishing.

Generally speaking you can do this in about 40 hours or less, depending on how handy you are and the tools that you have on hand.

By the way, if, when you remove the transom board, you find any broken bolts, missing screws, or broken braces - do what is necessary to properly repair or replace the defective or missing parts.

REW
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:57 AM
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mudpuppy mudpuppy is offline
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I replaced the transom board on mine (Crestliner). REW pretty much outlined it. It takes some time but not really too difficult. But if you're going to do it, do it right. If you go with a wood replacement (marine ply), seal it and all the holes really well. I used West Systems Epoxy, 3 coats, which many use for replacements.
Would have used a composite like Coosa board material, but the thickness of mine made it too costly because I couldn't get it to match without buying 2 complete sheets and it would have more than tripled the price. And it wasn't locally available and shipping was stupid expensive, too.
And when you replace the bolts use 3M brand 5200 or 4200 marine sealant and not silicone as most silicone brands are NOT approved for underwater use. Good luck
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  #4  
Old 08-17-2012, 08:35 AM
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1860Angler 1860Angler is offline
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Default You can, but....

I wouldn't tackle that project myself. If you are very handy then you could give it a try, I think I'm pretty handy, but I'd leave this one to the pro's!! Get a price from Lund to do it, they built it the first time and can fix it right the 2nd time.
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  #5  
Old 08-18-2012, 08:19 PM
REW REW is offline
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I 2nd the suggestion to use the all composite transom board.
Why go to all of the work and bother and have a wood board rot out again?

REW
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  #6  
Old 08-18-2012, 08:23 PM
REW REW is offline
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http://www.boatoutfitters.com/coosa-...tes-board.html
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