3 bank charger question

[GregPavlov]

Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy

Pro-Mariner offers both a 5' & 15' extend kit. They don't want you cutting off their terminals, which is ridiculous.

First item on this list http://promariner.com/products/marine-accessories/

HRG

They may have a legitimate reason (tho I don't know): Pro Charging Systems warned people not to cut theirs because of sensors in the wire. They now have a somewhat different design so now they tell you to cut it only at the terminal end.

PCS, by the way, will build a unit for you with custom-length leads so mine, for example, has 3 4-foot leads and 1 16-foot lead. They also sell fused extension cables that are supposed to make more reliable connections than splicing. I haven't used them so I don't know whether or not that's the case, but I haven't had any problems with their chargers and their upfront help has been very good. I believe the chargers that Lund sells are slightly rebadged PCS units.

[egladding]

Having sensors in the leads makes sense because both chargers have the automatic power distribution.

[jmboardman]

I will recommend Dual Pro chargers as I just bought a new one after 15 years of use on my last one. They are "repairable" if something ever goes wrong I only replaced mine with a new one as I plan to move to AGM batteries and the new chargers are designed with a setting for each lead to adapt for each battery type. You can find great prices online as well so shop around it will save you 100 or more.

[jmboardman]

http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-...ers/DPSS3.html

[Lunkerhead]

when I bought my used Lund Explorer SS it has a 3 bank charger but the never hooked up the third lead to the starting battery. I read the manual and they said I should use the Pro-Mariner 15' extend kit which I bought and had it hooked up in 5 minutes. The connector work great so you do not need to cut and splice the connections

[KraTToR]

Originally Posted by PolarDuke

Thanks.

Looking at a boat and when I had listed a 3 bank charger (with the setup I described in mind) the salesman asked me if I was planning a 36 volt trolling setup. When I said no he said I didn't need a three bank charger then. Interesting.

Every boat dealer I talked to (including some mechanics) have the point of view that your OBC should be for your trolling motor batteries and they don't understand why you'd need to run it to your cranking battery.

Not to confuse matters, many of us that run with 24 volt trolling motors have 4 batteries:

• 2 large deep cycles connected in series for the trolling motor
• 1 Cranking battery
• 1 medium or large deep cycle house battery.

The house and cranking battery are tied together using a charging relay which keeps the cranking and house batteries isolated during discharge, and combines them during charging.

Check this out:
http://www.hodgesmarine.com/BLUE-SEA...-p/blu7610.htm

[2sac]

Originally Posted by KraTToR

Every boat dealer I talked to (including some mechanics) have the point of view that your OBC should be for your trolling motor batteries and they don't understand why you'd need to run it to your cranking battery.

Not to confuse matters, many of us that run with 24 volt trolling motors have 4 batteries:

• 2 large deep cycles connected in series for the trolling motor
• 1 Cranking battery
• 1 medium or large deep cycle house battery.

The house and cranking battery are tied together using a charging relay which keeps the cranking and house batteries isolated during discharge, and combines them during charging.

Check this out:
http://www.hodgesmarine.com/BLUE-SEA...-p/blu7610.htm

Dumb question. Could this be used to charge the trolling motor batteries off the alternator during long runs?

[pale ryder]

Originally Posted by KraTToR

Every boat dealer I talked to (including some mechanics) have the point of view that your OBC should be for your trolling motor batteries and they don't understand why you'd need to run it to your cranking battery.

Not to confuse matters, many of us that run with 24 volt trolling motors have 4 batteries:

• 2 large deep cycles connected in series for the trolling motor
• 1 Cranking battery
• 1 medium or large deep cycle house battery.

The house and cranking battery are tied together using a charging relay which keeps the cranking and house batteries isolated during discharge, and combines them during charging.

Check this out:
http://www.hodgesmarine.com/BLUE-SEA...-p/blu7610.htm

About all I have to say about having my starting battery hooked up to a charger is;
Some days I fish 10+ hours and only run the outboard 10 minutes, but I run graphs live wells etc. most of the day. And when I get done I plug in the charger and it take 4 hours or more for the charger to read full on the starting battery.
A 3 bank charger costs about $100 more than a 2 bank charger. I would much rather pay the extra $100 than go out the next day and have a dead battery.

Just my opinion.

[KraTToR]

Originally Posted by 2sac

Dumb question. Could this be used to charge the trolling motor batteries off the alternator during long runs?

No, it doesnt work that way. Your trolling motor batteries are wired for 24 volts.

There are other products (invertors?) available that will allow you to accomplish this but I'm no expert on this. Also, I'm not sure I would want to over-load my OB's alterrnator as I'm sure they don't come cheap.

[lovetofishanytime]

I have the same setup on my Lund. Using Minnkota 345PC 3 bank charger with Minnkota 15 foot extension wire to charge start battery in back. The charging wires on these chargers have temperature sensors to charge according to air temp. My start battery operates-livewell, bilge pump, sonar and 2 Minnkota Talons. It gives me piece of mind to have a fully charged starting battery for my next fishing adventure.