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#21
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RPR,
Glass in the rocker and give the boat a test. That may solve your entire issue. Good luck Remember, the entire issue with rocker and hook is generally a hull deformation that may only be 1/16th, 3/32, or 1/8th of an inch hull deformation. |
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#22
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Quote:
If I read this correctly, your pad has the rocker. In all but the highest stern lift scenario (top end - WFO) there is too much of the remaining outer stern in the water for the rocker on the pad to have any affect on the bow lift. Modification of this will have little low/mid range performance change. I wouldn't waste good $$$ here. Musky is fully correct in that any hook would want be added to the outer hull, as far from the pad as possible. Also, small is big when it comes to hook. You can sand it back off, but big in the order of 1/4" is a ton! Remember liquids are incompressible and at your higher speeds great force is created by a hook pushing water down. Stupid question here but have you tried a hydrofoil on the motors cavitation plate. They look funny but solve a lot of problems. catfish |
#23
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Good feedback! Yes, I tried a hydrofoil and it helped a bit but didn't solve the issue. In addition, it was stolen off the boat last week...
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#24
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I must be missing something here. Can't you just trim the motor down a tish?
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#25
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Did you try lowering the motor? Between that and the foil it made a big difference for me. I also remember that a mirage plus prop helped quite a bit. Sucks that some turd took your foil.
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#26
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OP: When you said you tried changing vents on your prop, did it help at all? Made a HUGE difference with those same issues for me and pretty much solved them. Like bobk, I was thinking a combination of the hydrofoil and the correct prop set-up might just solve your problems. You just need more "bite" from the prop and motor in low-mid range to force the hull down and onto plane. Sure a heck of allot, easier, cheaper, and less risky than screwing with the dynamics of the hull. |
#27
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When I had my jackplate I was (unfortunately) more concerned with how motor height affected my top end speed, so most of my testing with motor height was done in relatively flat water. Lowering the motor definitely took high end away, but I never really noticed how it affected rough water handling and porpoising. I removed the jackplate to eliminate the fulcrum effect to try to keep my bow down. This did help but only slightly. The motor is currently in the middle (3rd) hole. I had to install a tilt limiter to avoid interference between the electrical conduit into the motor cowling and the bilge cover as well as my hydraulic system on the motor and the top of the stern. If I lower the motor any further I may not be able to tilt it enough to even get a transom saver on it when trailering. Right now I estimate that I'm about 5" below the pad.
Another member who has a 215X with a Verado offered to check his hull to see if he has the same rocker in the pad and the same little to no hook in his lifting strakes. He is one of the few who does not suffer from porpoising with this boat despite the heavy motor so it will be interesting to see if his hull is laid up differently than mine. Edit: For what it's worth, it's a hull design/layout issue that can be mitigated but generally not solved by motor height, prop, hydrofoil, weight distribution, trim tabs, adding hooks, etc. There's way too many reports of this out there with 215Xs, the bow is simply way too light. This is why Triton widened the beam and moved the cockpit forward on the 216 Fish Hunter which had a significantly shorter front casting deck, to move the CG forward by a couple of feet. Last edited by rpr; 06-20-2017 at 03:08 PM. |
#28
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When the issue is resolved, let us know what was required to resolve the issue.
Be safe |
#29
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Will do, I hope to have some comparative results by the end of the weekend.
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#30
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Interesting results, seems pretty clear that Triton made some changes between the 2007 and 2008 model years. Not sure how to show the results here, let's see if this works:
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