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  #21  
Old 03-18-2017, 05:11 PM
REW REW is offline
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdgjPP-rDQM
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  #22  
Old 03-18-2017, 05:40 PM
Lazy Ike Lazy Ike is offline
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Default Why?

Why do you need that? Find out that axle size or bring a bearing in with you and go to Northern or any place like that and buy the hub kit.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...s+trailer-hubs

Because he has little experience in this & HRG is guiding him to a probable mistake free replacement?
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  #23  
Old 03-18-2017, 05:55 PM
Willey walleye Willey walleye is offline
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Thanks for all your help guys!
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  #24  
Old 03-18-2017, 07:10 PM
MarkG MarkG is offline
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If you were to replace the studs, would likely need to remove the hubs to do it anyway. So may as well just replace them. They usually come assembled and greased with new bearings, so there's that benefit also.

Plenty of youtube how to videos, not hard. The biggest challenge will be getting the correct size. Best is to take one apart. The bearings and seals have numbers stamped on them. Inspect both the inner and outer bearings, as you may have a tapered spindle and the inners and outers MAY be different sizes. Best to maybe take the whole assembly to a good parts dealer and have them match it.
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  #25  
Old 03-19-2017, 04:43 AM
Hunter5117 Hunter5117 is offline
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I did the bearings on my '95 Shoreland'r last year, easy job took a couple of hours in the driveway.

Parts available pretty much anyplace, I called Shoreland'r to confirm but ended up ordering from Amazon, they have a wide assortment. I used all Timken parts, at least in my mind they are one of the top names in bearings and offer bearing kits that are matched for your application.

As already mentioned, for your studs to be truly messed up, either the splines in the hub are stripped, or the threads are stripped. If the splines are stripped, then the hub is likely ruined as well and needs to be replaced.

Biggest fear is messing up the axle stub. If like mine, the stubs are welded into the axle tube and if the stub gets ruined, then the whole thing must be replaced which is a much bigger and expensive job.

However you fix your problem, make sure new bearings, races and seals are part of the job. Keeping the stub axle in good shape is my #1 concern everything else can be repaired for relative pennies compared to getting them messed up.

If you have Bearing buddies, make sure you clean them out really good. Mine were seized up with dried up grease and were not doing anything to keep pressure on the grease.

Last edited by Hunter5117; 03-19-2017 at 04:45 AM.
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  #26  
Old 03-19-2017, 06:59 PM
Hanr3 Hanr3 is offline
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Do you have anti-seize on the studs. If so, that would explain why they never reached torque.

You all are making this more complicated than it needs to be.
There should be a hole in the backing plate (if you have a backing plate) that the stud pushes through. Align stud an hole and pound it out. 5 pound sledge works great for this. If you want to save the thread, screw on a lug nut until it is flush with the end of the stud. Once the stud is free of the hub, take the nut off. Personally, I wouldn't worry about saving the threads. There are standard studs recommended by the manufacture. Get replacements, be prepared to pay more than you would expect, up to $5 per stud/nut set. Depends on where you go.

Installation is simple, push the new stud in as far as you can, slip on an oversized nut or stack of washers, no thread engagement, and a good nut backwards 9taper side out) tighten it down until the stud seats, remove, repeat. Put on tire and torque to spec. Torqueing to spec will seat any studs you didn't get earlier.
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  #27  
Old 03-20-2017, 05:12 AM
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Shellback Shellback is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanr3 View Post
Do you have anti-seize on the studs. If so, that would explain why they never reached torque.

You all are making this more complicated than it needs to be.

There should be a hole in the backing plate (if you have a backing plate) that the stud pushes through. Align stud an hole and pound it out. 5 pound sledge works great for this. If you want to save the thread, screw on a lug nut until it is flush with the end of the stud. Once the stud is free of the hub, take the nut off. Personally, I wouldn't worry about saving the threads. There are standard studs recommended by the manufacture. Get replacements, be prepared to pay more than you would expect, up to $5 per stud/nut set. Depends on where you go.

Installation is simple, push the new stud in as far as you can, slip on an oversized nut or stack of washers, no thread engagement, and a good nut backwards 9taper side out) tighten it down until the stud seats, remove, repeat. Put on tire and torque to spec. Torqueing to spec will seat any studs you didn't get earlier.
Exactly!
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  #28  
Old 03-20-2017, 07:56 AM
Huntindave Huntindave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanr3 View Post
Align stud an hole and pound it out. 5 pound sledge works great for this.
This is a good way to bend the flange on a hub. The hub should be removed and backed up when pressing out the stud.
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  #29  
Old 03-20-2017, 10:21 AM
Willey walleye Willey walleye is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Runr Guy View Post
Start here: https://www.shorelandr.com/parts/Default

Enter your VIN #, and you'll be able to start the parts search.

HRG
Thanks HRG, this worked awesome!

My VIN numbers were all worn off the stickers on the frame, so I took some measurements and pictures of the trailer and emailed them to Shorelandr last night. I got an email at 8:40am this morning with my trailer model number and parts manual. Talk about amazing customer service, two giant thumbs up to Shorelandr.
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  #30  
Old 03-20-2017, 03:24 PM
ozarkeyes ozarkeyes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willey walleye View Post
Thanks for all your help guys!
Unless you have a lot of extra time and don't mind the work and effort...

I would recommend just swapping out complete hubs with bearings pre-lubed. You will be surprised with the reasonable cost of that you can find on the web. To list a couple places to start

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Parts

http://www.easternmarine.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/
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