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  #11  
Old 03-20-2017, 03:26 PM
last chance last chance is offline
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hot oil just drains better than cold oil. even in my mercruiser I need to get the oil hot so I can pump the oil out. and pumping the oil out through the dip stick tube you never get all the oil out. but with a outboard hot oil is thinner than cold oil and let it drain over night and most of the oil will be drained.
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  #12  
Old 03-20-2017, 03:34 PM
Kevin23 Kevin23 is offline
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I think you should have the best of both worlds IMO. Start it, let it run for 10-15 minutes, then immediately pull the plug and let it drain for 24 hours. Be sure to raise and lower the motor a few times to get all the oil to the bottom so it can drain.
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  #13  
Old 03-21-2017, 11:30 AM
MarkG MarkG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin23 View Post
I think you should have the best of both worlds IMO. Start it, let it run for 10-15 minutes, then immediately pull the plug and let it drain for 24 hours. Be sure to raise and lower the motor a few times to get all the oil to the bottom so it can drain.
X2 (although not sure really need to run it that long, they get warm quick)
but just to add,, leave the filter on during this drain time. By allowing it to drain that long, the benefit is the filter will drain down quite a bit too, which will then be less messy when you remove it.
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  #14  
Old 03-26-2017, 07:43 AM
lazermule lazermule is online now
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Default Let's apply a little logic here

Applying a little logic here, by going through the trouble of putting the muffs on, connecting the water source and warming up the engine, aren't you accomplishing the same thing as the last time you ran it in the lake? Maybe it's been a week since it was ran? In that case wouldn't ALL the oil that's going to drain back to the pan be there? Even better with the jostling and lateral forces applied from the trailer ride back from the lake? Would the only "draw back" be that the oil in the pan isn't warm?

My vote would be to change the oil without warming the engine up after it's sat for a day or better yet a week. I'd probably let it drain for an extended period, maybe an hour, maybe over night. If I was really concerned about the oil being warm when changing it, I'd install a dipstick oil heater for some period of time before changing the oil. If you really feel that you must extract every last little bit of oil from from the engine because it is some "toxic engine killing" formula, you either have OCD or you've waited far too long to change your oil.

This post wasn't meant to flame anyone, or make fun of anyone....it's your motor and your time, handle the situation as you wish, just applying a bit of logic and my own $.02.

Chow for now,

LM
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  #15  
Old 03-26-2017, 10:58 AM
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Bobby Winds Bobby Winds is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazermule View Post
Applying a little logic here, by going through the trouble of putting the muffs on, connecting the water source and warming up the engine, aren't you accomplishing the same thing as the last time you ran it in the lake? Maybe it's been a week since it was ran? In that case wouldn't ALL the oil that's going to drain back to the pan be there? Even better with the jostling and lateral forces applied from the trailer ride back from the lake? Would the only "draw back" be that the oil in the pan isn't warm?

My vote would be to change the oil without warming the engine up after it's sat for a day or better yet a week. I'd probably let it drain for an extended period, maybe an hour, maybe over night. If I was really concerned about the oil being warm when changing it, I'd install a dipstick oil heater for some period of time before changing the oil. If you really feel that you must extract every last little bit of oil from from the engine because it is some "toxic engine killing" formula, you either have OCD or you've waited far too long to change your oil.

This post wasn't meant to flame anyone, or make fun of anyone....it's your motor and your time, handle the situation as you wish, just applying a bit of logic and my own $.02.

Chow for now,

LM
All I can say is I was taught by professors / engineers / engine / car builders at Alfred State University in NYS that the oil should always be hot when changing it out of any engine.

When I went there it was rated the best in the country, however that was a long time ago . . .

http://www.alfredstate.edu/automotiv...ice-technician
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  #16  
Old 03-26-2017, 04:51 PM
lazermule lazermule is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby Winds View Post
All I can say is I was taught by professors / engineers / engine / car builders at Alfred State University in NYS that the oil should always be hot when changing it out of any engine.

When I went there it was rated the best in the country, however that was a long time ago . . .

http://www.alfredstate.edu/automotiv...ice-technician

Yeah, you never know when you might run into someone with those credentials. You better listen to them.

LM
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  #17  
Old 03-27-2017, 07:30 PM
REW REW is offline
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Lazer,
In addition to the other posts, changing oil on a hot engine or lower unit, is just simple common sense.

Hot oil flows much easier than cold oil. Oil drained from a just running engine will have any particulates that might just happen to be in the oil, still be in the oil and will not have settled out of the oil. So, when the hot oil drains out, any junk that might happen to be in the engine is drained out at the same time.



Be safe
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  #18  
Old 03-28-2017, 04:25 AM
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Yesterday I changed the oil in my wife's Honda Civic but made sure the engine was at operating temp before draining the oil pan and filter.
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2015 Polar Kraft Frontier 179WT
2015 E-TEC 90 HO
2015 Trailmaster trailer
Lowrance HDS7 Gen 2 Touch unit networked to a LMS 520c
Lowrance Engine Interface cable
Minn Kota Power Drive V2 US2 now with i-Pilot
Custom designed and built rod holders
Custom designed and built down rigger platforms
All towed with my Trusty G2 '07 Toyota Tundra
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  #19  
Old 03-28-2017, 05:35 AM
Bobs my hero
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Originally Posted by Bobby Winds View Post
Yesterday I changed the oil in my wife's Honda Civic but made sure the engine was at operating temp before draining the oil pan and filter.
Congratulations!!! Good job Bob.
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  #20  
Old 03-28-2017, 05:42 AM
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Shellback Shellback is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby Winds View Post
All I can say is I was taught by professors / engineers / engine / car builders at Alfred State University in NYS that the oil should always be hot when changing it out of any engine.

When I went there it was rated the best in the country, however that was a long time ago . . .

http://www.alfredstate.edu/automotiv...ice-technician
Alfred State? Oh Yea, I remember now. Alfred E. Neuman was the founder wasn't he?
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