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  #11  
Old 03-18-2017, 09:53 AM
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yarcraft91 yarcraft91 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willey walleye View Post
How difficult is it to replace the hubs? My only experience with hub removal was on my wife's car and I couldn't get the **** things off and ended up having to bring it into a shop.

This may be a dumb question, but to remove the hub, does the bearing assembly need to be taken apart first?

Thanks for all the answers and help so far.
Drum brakes, the drums usually pull off after the wheel is removed. May need to back off the brake adjustment a tad. No need to mess with the bearings. If you have to remove the hub, then you need to remove the bearings and the brakes.

Disk brakes, you have to remove the bearings to remove the hub.

You can often replace the wheel studs without removing the hub in either case.
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Last edited by yarcraft91; 03-18-2017 at 09:56 AM.
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  #12  
Old 03-18-2017, 10:13 AM
Willey walleye Willey walleye is offline
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No brakes on this trailer.
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  #13  
Old 03-18-2017, 10:40 AM
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No brakes on the trailer you have to take the wheel bearing out to get the hubs off. I never pounded out studs on a the axle before I 've always taken the hubs of and did on the bench, you'll have to use something under the hub to hold it up around the stud(short piece of pipe) to pound it out.
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  #14  
Old 03-18-2017, 10:49 AM
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You can buy a tool to press studs out without removing the hub from the axle.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/autom...-stud/view-all
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  #15  
Old 03-18-2017, 10:57 AM
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BTW, OP, this from your original post:
Quote:
I tried retorquing when I got home and my torque wrench never clicked no matter how much I pushed on it.
Unless you can see obvious thread damage to the lug nut or stud, the only way I can imagine this happening is if the stud is spinning in the hub, in which case the hub itself is damaged and you'll likely find a replacement stud will do the same thing. You'll probably need to replace the hub.
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Last edited by yarcraft91; 03-18-2017 at 11:00 AM.
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  #16  
Old 03-18-2017, 11:12 AM
Willey walleye Willey walleye is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yarcraft91 View Post
BTW, OP, this from your original post:

Unless you can see obvious thread damage to the lug nut or stud, the only way I can imagine this happening is if the stud is spinning in the hub, in which case the hub itself is damaged and you'll likely find a replacement stud will do the same thing. You'll probably need to replace the hub.
I was worried about that and think you are probably right. I guess I'll be doing the hubs now.

Has anyone tried Vortex hubs? I like the idea of having everything put together and all I have to do is pop them on. They have a 6yr / 100,000 mile warranty but I can't find a whole lot of feedback on them.
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  #17  
Old 03-18-2017, 11:23 AM
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Replace the hubs 110%. With that many studs bad and the age/bearings, and do we don't know if you had someone did your bearings that they just put bearing only in and left the old races in. (seen that before from people having problems a year after new bearing job) What I got out of the post it is a no brainier on a two sided hub replacement. It's cheap road trip insurance.
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  #18  
Old 03-18-2017, 02:58 PM
Willey walleye Willey walleye is offline
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Hub replacement it is! Now I just have to figure out my spindle size?
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  #19  
Old 03-18-2017, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willey walleye View Post
Hub replacement it is! Now I just have to figure out my spindle size?
Start here: https://www.shorelandr.com/parts/Default

Enter your VIN #, and you'll be able to start the parts search.

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  #20  
Old 03-18-2017, 04:56 PM
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Why do you need that? Find out that axle size or bring a bearing in with you and go to Northern or any place like that and buy the hub kit.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...s+trailer-hubs

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