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#21
03-15-2012, 05:53 PM
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Rick Yes, you could do that, in fact REW and others originally pointed that out to me. However, the factory wiring went to a factory plug of course and that plug was not heavy enough to handle the AMPS, So rather than tear that all up I just ran the 4AWG and left the original wiring the way it was (could be helpful for future sale to have original wiring intact). I had to use a battery bay in the center and a bay up front for the batteries and frankly I think the heavier gage wire actually made it easier to run because it wasn't flexing and getting caught up while running behing the livewell, it just plowed through and around everything LOL. Any heavier and it would have been a pain though. 4AWG is the perfect size in my opinion. The fact that you have both batteries up front really makes this quite a nice install. The only question I still have is that light 10AWG that they put on the motor..... 
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#22
03-15-2012, 06:15 PM
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Actually, I have 2 different runs of wire. The wire attached to the TM is 10 gauge(confirmed). It runs from the TM to the male plug.
The harness that came with the boat is 8 gauge. it runs from the batteries to the female plug receptacle. I propose to replace the 8 gauge portion. Here's where it gets interesting: I just pulled the covers off the Terrova again. A few days ago I looked at the connections and thought they were permanently attached. But, with a little judicious wiggling, I pulled the 10 gauge wire loose from it's connection. I'll be darned-dinky little spade connectors. I Swear. 56 peak amps running through tiny spade connectors. Really? New direction. I'm calling MinnKota tomorrow. If the 10 gauge is an assembly error, we'll get it fixed. If they tell me the 10 gauge wire is correct, I'll thank them, hang up and promptly switch it to 8 gauge. I won't have to buy it because I'll scavenge it from the existing harness that came with the boat. I'll throw the 16 feet of 4 gauge wire and lugs I bought today into the corner of the garage and run 6 gauge from the batteries to the plug receptacle. The 4 gauge just seems overkill. Rick
__________________
Leave it better than you found it.
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#23
03-15-2012, 06:33 PM
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Rick
For your install, at those lengths Id agree that 4AWG is overkill. It just made sense for me on a couple different levels and was only a few bucks more. Your plan sounds like a good one. Especially when swapping out the Leads from the motor. 
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#24
03-15-2012, 06:38 PM
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bobo,
Just a thought, the TM wire I've seen for boat harnesses is pretty stiff, and tends to be made up of fewer but larger strands. If what you have seems flexible enough, use it. But if it's pretty stiff, I'd get some more flexible 8awg for the TM leads. HRG
__________________
"I've got a car with a trailer hitch, and a pocket full of money. Do you want to sell that boat today, or not?" My Mentor, Bill Michalek, circa 1975
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#25
03-15-2012, 09:06 PM
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I got a heads up for everyone using the battery tender on your trolling motor. I had to take mine back apart today because I forgot to put the rubber grommet on that covers the battery tender plug when it is unplugged. When I took it back apart one of the studs/nuts crossed threaded on the back side and striped out on me. I must have over tightened it when I put it together. Arrrr I work with this stuff every day when building machine electrical panels at work. I always like to get all my wire connections tight but must have over tightened this one.
I had to order a new one tonight.   
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#26
03-15-2012, 09:23 PM
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Ouch!
If it's not one thing, it's another. Taking the wife to the airport in the AM for a business trip in Scottdale. Car appointment, then back to my rigging. Rick
__________________
Leave it better than you found it.
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#27
03-16-2012, 04:00 AM
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Quote:
Fisheye When I received mine I noticed that one of the nuts were were wobbling badly but fairly tight at the same time. The nut was poorly threaded. I picked up a couple spare nuts and threw out the stock ones. Definitely something to check for now that more than one of us had similar issue.
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#29
03-16-2012, 10:13 AM
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Just my opinion as I design with this stuff all the time, sizing wire for high current applications in electrical power situations. Although everyone is concerned about wire sizes here, the reality is how often do you run at 100% full on? If this was your 100% mode of operation, yes there should be concerns yet your battery would not last very long as reserve minutes for a series 31 battery is about 200 minutes at 25 amps. At 56 amps the battery would last probably less than an hour. Reality is most wire sizing is based on actual duty cycle. Losses in wire go up by the square of the current. Assuming 56 amps is full load the actual losses drop by 75% when the current drops in half (assuming 50% duty cycle by the maximizer). Although I don't agree with the faston connections, Minnkota has been doing this for years with no negative results. Although not to get too technical, I doubt that 8 ga wiring/10 ga to trolling motor would account for a reduction of performance of more than 5% at full speed. At 50% it probably less than 2.5%. It seems like a lot of work to pick up a few percentage points in efficiency. I can guarantee you that the wires will never get warm enought to be any concern, even at full power as neither the boat or motor manufacture needs things burning up.
However, if you are going to change from 10 ga to 8, send me a PM. I have some 8 ga super flexible 150C rated cable that is tin plated if you need. Thanks
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