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  #1  
Old 01-11-2017, 12:11 PM
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CSH Kucinski CSH Kucinski is offline
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Default Dryer Vent Booster Fan

I found out the reason why our new high efficiency dryer is not drying the clothes in less than two or three hours. Service Tech said the new dryers just aren't made as well as the old ones so consequently the dryer is not exhausting properly based on how long the vent run (25 Feet) is from the dryer to the exterior of the house. He has recommended that we install a DV Booster Fan. Anyone run in to this same issue? I'm going to install one of these fans this weekend so I would appreciate any feedback, good or bag if you had to do the same thing.
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  #2  
Old 01-11-2017, 12:23 PM
Crackback Crackback is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSH Kucinski View Post
I found out the reason why our new high efficiency dryer is not drying the clothes in less than two or three hours. Service Tech said the new dryers just aren't made as well as the old ones so consequently the dryer is not exhausting properly based on how long the vent run (25 Feet) is from the dryer to the exterior of the house. He has recommended that we install a DV Booster Fan. Anyone run in to this same issue? I'm going to install one of these fans this weekend so I would appreciate any feedback, good or bag if you had to do the same thing.

My son-in-law is a licensed plumber/ pipefitter/foreman for a major mechanical contractor and he told me they run into that all the time. For long vent runs you need an extra "push" to get the moist air out. Do install the fan.
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Old 01-11-2017, 12:30 PM
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I'd install it in a way that makes it easy to access for removal and cleaning every now and then. Lint WILL build up on the motor and blades.
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Old 01-11-2017, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crackback View Post
My son-in-law is a licensed plumber/ pipefitter/foreman for a major mechanical contractor and he told me they run into that all the time. For long vent runs you need an extra "push" to get the moist air out. Do install the fan.
Crackback, thanks for the info! Would you ask your SIL if it is best to put it as close to the dryer as possible or in another location? I only have access to about the first 12 to 15 feet and that is starting at the dryer.
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Old 01-11-2017, 03:01 PM
RistoRap RistoRap is offline
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Here's a link to one manufacturer: https://continentalfan.com/e-catalog...-booster-fans/

They recommend a minimum 15 feet between dryer and fan. As mentioned earlier, install it where it is easily accessible for cleanout.

I'm not a big fan of booster fans (no pun intended) just because of the possibility of lint build up, but if it's the only way of getting your drier to vent properly so be it.

Note: If you can eliminate any elbows or flex duct it would help. Hard duct would also help if not already in place. Elbows and that flexible stuff creates a lot of restriction to airflow.

Last edited by RistoRap; 01-11-2017 at 03:06 PM.
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:20 PM
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Sounds like a good reason to keep my 40 YO dryer working.

Seriously, I bought a SpeedQueen dryer for our cottage a couple years ago and it has no problem exhausting moist air out a 15'+ vent line. Maybe the real problem is the choice of dryer brands people are buying? It takes the same amount of energy to evaporate water today as it did when dryers were built 40 years ago. "Saving energy" by reducing the energy demand of the ventilation fans sounds like a false source of savings.
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:29 PM
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I noticed the 120' vent capability in the GE dryer the Mrs is looking at,,,,

Not that i need it, but it's obviously something people are looking for.

http://products.geappliances.com/app...cs/GTX65GBSJWS

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Old 01-11-2017, 06:37 PM
Justfishing Justfishing is offline
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I would analyze the vent set up. For starters how is it attached at the back of the dryer. I see a lot of coiled up flex hose. Try to get it set up with rigid pipe.

Next is how long is the run, what is it made off and what does the vent hood look like.

The run gets shorter with each elbow you add. You realy shouldn't have more than 2 elbows.

You should use rigid pipe. It is again code to use flex tubing in a concealed area i.e. behind drywall. Still I see it often.

Why does the vent come out. I see low profile hoods used on roofs. These are realy for bath vents. Also we get called out and find there is a bird screen. It will be completely plugged in months. Some of the sidewall vents have cages or shrouding that either is to restrictive or gets clogged with lint.

The best sidewall cover has 3 to 4 flaps. Just check them frequently to be sure there is no lint build up that keeps them from closing. If they don't close birds will make a nest in the vent.

One of the worst cover has a single flapper. They don't seems to close tightly and then a bird will make a nest in ut.

If the run is 25feet or less and has 2 or fewer 90 degree elbows and is made of rigid pipe then it should work unless it is dirty. A run like that takes professional equipment to clean.

To test the run get a good strong shop vac or electric leaf blower. Blow from the inside. You should feel the same kind of force on the outside.

Then before hooking up the dryer check the air flow with nothing hooked to it. After its hooked up you should feel the same force outside. If not your connection is causing a restriction.

DO NOT USE A TELESCOPING ADAPTER AT THE BACK OF THE DRYER.

I have seen many homes where there is not enough room behind a dryer. A dryer vent is 4 inches. You will need at least 6 inches between the dryer and wall. I have seen it that when you have the 6 inch space you can't open the door to the laundry room. Sometimes the back of the dryer and vent don't line up and there is so little room the vent get pinched.

So before spending the money on a fan make sure you have a proper vent set up.
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:05 AM
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Bobby Winds Bobby Winds is offline
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I'm glad I'm repairing our old 15 year GE old dryer.

Monday I order parts for it because it making a lot of noise. After a lot of research I found out I need to replace the drum bearing and the four plastic slides that the drum rides on. The "bearing" is nothing more then a plastic piece that holds up the drum which then rides on these simple plastic "slides" that look like pieces of plastic cut out of a milk jug that are 3/4" X 4" and are costing me $30........grrrrrrrrr

But anyways once I get the parts by next week it will take me 30 minutes or less to install said parts.......beats spending $500 for a new dryer IMHO.

BTW I see they have now brought back the "agitator" in the top loading washers........these new high tech washers and dryers don't last as long as the old ones......my son just replace his "high tech front load washer" with the old top load design.
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Old 01-12-2017, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justfishing View Post
I would analyze the vent set up. For starters how is it attached at the back of the dryer. I see a lot of coiled up flex hose. Try to get it set up with rigid pipe.

Next is how long is the run, what is it made off and what does the vent hood look like.

The run gets shorter with each elbow you add. You realy shouldn't have more than 2 elbows.

You should use rigid pipe. It is again code to use flex tubing in a concealed area i.e. behind drywall. Still I see it often.

Why does the vent come out. I see low profile hoods used on roofs. These are realy for bath vents. Also we get called out and find there is a bird screen. It will be completely plugged in months. Some of the sidewall vents have cages or shrouding that either is to restrictive or gets clogged with lint.

The best sidewall cover has 3 to 4 flaps. Just check them frequently to be sure there is no lint build up that keeps them from closing. If they don't close birds will make a nest in the vent.

One of the worst cover has a single flapper. They don't seems to close tightly and then a bird will make a nest in ut.

If the run is 25feet or less and has 2 or fewer 90 degree elbows and is made of rigid pipe then it should work unless it is dirty. A run like that takes professional equipment to clean.

To test the run get a good strong shop vac or electric leaf blower. Blow from the inside. You should feel the same kind of force on the outside.

Then before hooking up the dryer check the air flow with nothing hooked to it. After its hooked up you should feel the same force outside. If not your connection is causing a restriction.

DO NOT USE A TELESCOPING ADAPTER AT THE BACK OF THE DRYER.

I have seen many homes where there is not enough room behind a dryer. A dryer vent is 4 inches. You will need at least 6 inches between the dryer and wall. I have seen it that when you have the 6 inch space you can't open the door to the laundry room. Sometimes the back of the dryer and vent don't line up and there is so little room the vent get pinched.

So before spending the money on a fan make sure you have a proper vent set up.
JF,

Thanks for the information. Unfortunately the contractor responsible for the installation of the dryer venting did an awful job when we built the house. It's a joke so I know that is contributing to the issue however the dryer that bit the dust was 22 years old, could not be repaired but worked well up until that point.

Out the back of my dryer I have the flex hose because the dryer does not line up with the rigid pipe coming out of the wall from side to side and top to bottom so there is definite restriction there. Dryer is approx. 6 to 8 inches away from the wall. After that there are two immediate 90 degree elbows before the horizontal run to the exterior of the house which is 30 to 32 feet, below the floor joists. Again with all of these restrictions the old dryer worked great and there was always a nice pile of lint outside under the vent. I take the elbows apart once a year for a good cleaning because there is definitely lint build up.

I have looked at re-routing the vent pipe and my only other option would be into the garage resulting in a run of approx. 10' but I am not real excited about doing that. A lot of moisture pumping into the garage. The two 90 degree elbows would remain and I would have to add at least two 45 degree elbows to get the vent pipe up and above the foundation. The VP would be running perpendicular to the floor joists and obviously below them until it reached the foundation.

At this point I believe my only option and best option is to add the fan.
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