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  #21  
Old 04-10-2015, 12:24 PM
REW REW is offline
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You point out the weakness of using an inland boat in the deep blue water.

Really a good idea to have a self bailing cockpit, when the waves and wind go big.

It would not be a bad idea to install two more big bilge pumps with separate outlets in your boat.

Then, cut a 6 inch drain into the bilge area of your boat, so any big waves that come on board can be quickly pumped out. Put a screen over the 6 inch hole to avoid stepping into the hole.

For example:
http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Bilge-P.../dp/B00D7MHCK4

Pumps of this size require a 1 1/4 inch hose. So, certainly as a starter, you can remove the current bilge pumps, replace the pump, hose and thru hull fitting with the 3000 gpm pump and 1 1/4 inch hose and thru fittings.

Better yet to duplicate the fitting for the other side of the boat.

With 2-3000 gpm bilge pumps, you will be able to pump at 6000 gpm. Hopefully this would save you if you took a huge wave over the front, back or side of the boat.




https://www.google.com/search?q=1+1/...H&ved=0CFEQsAQ

http://www.grainger.com/product/ZURN-INDUSTRIES-Replacement-Grate-4WDR5?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/4WDR5_AS01?$smthumb$

Last edited by REW; 04-10-2015 at 12:35 PM.
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  #22  
Old 04-10-2015, 11:04 PM
panheadsully panheadsully is offline
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Thank you all for the replies.

Granted, you are using an inland boat in the big blue, but...

The issue I'm having is where to put that drain in the boat? There doesn't seem to be a spot to do that. I need the water to get off the deck ASAP.

Another reason is I'd like to install a wash down system but all that stuff has nowhere to go...

Where to install the drain, that is the question. Obviously Lund didn't think this model needed one...

Weird!
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  #23  
Old 04-11-2015, 03:41 AM
Hot Runr Guy Hot Runr Guy is online now
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sully,
What if you modify your battery door to look more like dahunts? Separate the vertical panel from the floor panel, shorten the vertical one, and hinge it from the side like his is?

Any chance your could open that compartment and post a picture of it, so we could see where the battery is located?

HRG
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  #24  
Old 04-11-2015, 09:04 AM
panheadsully panheadsully is offline
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You bet. I looked at that option but again it seems the water would just dump onto the battery. I could possibly put a battery cover to try and waterproof it...

Maybe it's not that big of deal for the water to go there, just not sure?

Sully
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  #25  
Old 04-11-2015, 09:50 AM
Hot Runr Guy Hot Runr Guy is online now
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Do you use that ski pole mount? If not, I'd pull that mount & plate out, maybe add a 3-4" extension to the bottom of the floor panel (so water drains past the battery) and shorten & side-hinge the door.

Or,,,,, if you want to leave the floor & vertical panel as 1 unit, see if you can shorten the vertical panel (if it is a separate piece) and cut a 1" x 6-8" wide slot for water to drain thru.

Ah heck, just drag your rig here, I'll do it....

Hahaha, HRG
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  #26  
Old 04-11-2015, 11:15 AM
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wiredog wiredog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REW View Post
You point out the weakness of using an inland boat in the deep blue water.

Really a good idea to have a self bailing cockpit, when the waves and wind go big.

It would not be a bad idea to install two more big bilge pumps with separate outlets in your boat.

Then, cut a 6 inch drain into the bilge area of your boat, so any big waves that come on board can be quickly pumped out. Put a screen over the 6 inch hole to avoid stepping into the hole.

For example:
http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Bilge-P.../dp/B00D7MHCK4

Pumps of this size require a 1 1/4 inch hose. So, certainly as a starter, you can remove the current bilge pumps, replace the pump, hose and thru hull fitting with the 3000 gpm pump and 1 1/4 inch hose and thru fittings.

Better yet to duplicate the fitting for the other side of the boat.

With 2-3000 gpm bilge pumps, you will be able to pump at 6000 gpm. Hopefully this would save you if you took a huge wave over the front, back or side of the boat.




https://www.google.com/search?q=1+1/...H&ved=0CFEQsAQ

http://www.grainger.com/product/ZURN-INDUSTRIES-Replacement-Grate-4WDR5?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/4WDR5_AS01?$smthumb$
REW. i think 3000 gph means gallons per hour NOT gallons per minute. Wiredog
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  #27  
Old 04-12-2015, 06:31 PM
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Hanr3 Hanr3 is offline
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It looks like the battery is in the same cavity as the bilge pump. If you flood that cavity, will you lose power to run the bilge pump?
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  #28  
Old 04-12-2015, 07:22 PM
PolarDuke PolarDuke is offline
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Could the battery be relocated to sit atop that floor panel/plate behind the door and then install one of those drains in the floor ahead of door on side where battery is so water will won't spill onto engine oil reservoir.
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  #29  
Old 04-21-2015, 12:36 PM
panheadsully panheadsully is offline
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Well gentleman,
I said screw it and bought a Pacific Northwest Boat...

Thanks for all the feedback, seems really weird there were no drains but the new owner didn't care anyway! lol
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  #30  
Old 04-21-2015, 01:14 PM
T Mac T Mac is offline
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Like Burr said... we rarely get water over the bow on our deep V walleye boats... so it was a first time question for us walleye folks, here..

Just so you know
- Many models in the newer Lunds have larger gaps back there... but, then people complain about their sinkers, .. or dirt, or leaves, etc. getting back there where it is hard to retrieve them, or clean .
LOL!
Good luck on your fishing, and welcome to Walleye Central.

Last edited by T Mac; 04-21-2015 at 01:24 PM.
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