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Connecting Breaker to Trolling motor battery - Walleye Message Central
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  #1  
Old 03-29-2012, 05:01 PM
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RickOnt RickOnt is offline
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Default Connecting Breaker to Trolling motor battery

OK Fellas

What do you use?

Short piece of battery cable or??

Rick
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  #2  
Old 03-29-2012, 05:08 PM
tugger tugger is offline
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Went to lowes, in the hardware section there is an area that has different sized flat steel with holes. I found one that had the correct size holes for the battery stud, cut it in half and which left one hole on each end. Deburred it with my grinder and installed it on the battery post with the other end to the breaker. I think it was $1.50 or less for 2 pcs.
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:11 PM
REW REW is offline
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The steel plate will work, but it will rust over time.
When you are at Lowe's or similar hardware store pick up a piece of strip brass that is 1/2 or 3/4 inch wide that is about 1/8th inch thick.
Drill a hole of the right size for the battery in one end.
Drill a hole of the right size and at the right distance from the terminal to allow connection of the circuit breaker.

Bolt the circuit breaker to the brass strap.
Then, bolt the strap breaker, wire to the battery.

Good luck
REW
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  #4  
Old 03-29-2012, 05:28 PM
reddog reddog is offline
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My breaker came with a flat bar predrilled


What about pounding flat a 3 inch piece of 1/2 inch copper pipe and drilling it?
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:33 PM
tugger tugger is offline
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REW

Thought I was doing well till I read your response. Oh well, the steel should last for the year and I'll do the brass next year. Great idea
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:54 PM
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I cut 2" pieces off some 1/2" copper water pipe, then flattened them with a hammer and drilled the correct size holes on each end. They've been in the boat 6 years and the only time I've touched them was when I put new batteries in.
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I had my patience tested, it came back negative.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:47 PM
goldman goldman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tugger View Post
REW

Thought I was doing well till I read your response. Oh well, the steel should last for the year and I'll do the brass next year. Great idea
Just keep it coated with grease of some sort. Vaseline works, or you can buy the dialectric greese too.

Paul
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:53 PM
tugger tugger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldman View Post
Just keep it coated with grease of some sort. Vaseline works, or you can buy the dialectric greese too.

Paul

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Old 03-30-2012, 04:45 AM
Modog Modog is offline
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Default Insulated?

I was under the impression that all positive battery terminals and any other un-fused, exposed positive leads must be insulated or protected to prevent accidental arcing.
Is this correct?
If so, how do you guys provide the insulation to the flat copper bars?
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  #10  
Old 03-30-2012, 07:31 AM
tugger tugger is offline
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Mine is coming of the negative battery post....perhaps that's wrong but I didnt think it mattered as long as the breaker was in the cahin? Not much opportunity for arching in the battery bay IMO but I hear ya.
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