Trailer work

[gonz]

I would like to put more support on the bunks of my Shorelander trailer. They are sagging and not making full contact with the aluminum boat. My question: is there any way to do this without parking my boat in the water at the marina, about an hour away?

gonz

[TNtroller]

Depending on your boat and overall weight, you could jack the boat up, put supports under the boat and do the bunk work, or if you have a strong enough rafter system, raise the boat with hoists, use supports for the boat and then do the work. A lot of effort and still dangerous imo.

I would probably just figure out what and how I was going to add the support to the bunks to prevent sagging, get all the materials and do one or more mock fittings, then make sure I had everything ready, launch the boat, tie it up and do the work in the ramp parking lot if all possible. I have built new bunks for previous boats at the house, loaded up the tools and stuff, launch the boat, and change out the bunks in the ramp parking lot. One time the wife went with me and she rode around in the boat for 15-30 minutes while I changed out the bunks. Go on a weekday if possible if you can't find a buddy to watch the boat for you.

[Hot Runr Guy]

gonz,
We have similiar-size rigs, I just use some scrap pieces of 2x10 or 2x12, and a good floor jack, positioned directly under the transom. Leave the winch tight, so it holds the bow in position as the stern rises.

HRG

[djcoop52]

With some 2x4's and plywood you can build hull shaped supports that span part of the hull of the boat install in two or three places under boat jack up boat install floor jacks under supports and have a safely supported boat that will allow you to work on bunks. Or as suggested before long straps and lift from overhead but make sure that the overhead structure is strong enough to carry the added weight. I'm not a fan of hanging anything heavy off of roof systems.

[Phil T]

Did the bunks sag, or did they warp? If it's warping, the bunk board could be turned over but the carpeting may need to be removed and stapled to the new top side.

[gonz]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Yes, they are sagging. I like the idea of supporting with 2x10's and jacking, just raising the stern. I don't think I can hoist from the ceiling, but you gave me some good info. I will plan on crawling under and seeing if a an extra middle support of the bunk can be added. It may just be new board regularly, but it makes more sense to me to add another support to the existing bunk.

I had been thinking I may have to just take a camping weekend to do it and fix it at the lake parking lot like you said TN.

Gonz

[GeorgeJr]

Originally Posted by gonz

Thanks for the replies everyone. Yes, they are sagging. I like the idea of supporting with 2x10's and jacking, just raising the stern. I don't think I can hoist from the ceiling, but you gave me some good info. I will plan on crawling under and seeing if a an extra middle support of the bunk can be added. It may just be new board regularly, but it makes more sense to me to add another support to the existing bunk.

I had been thinking I may have to just take a camping weekend to do it and fix it at the lake parking lot like you said TN.

Gonz

A flat board is easy to bend. Before fixing it do you think it is causing problems? Do you have a pic? Aluminum angle iron on the sides would help but could bend if you power load it due to the angle. If replacing the boards use SS/plated carriage bolts to square tubing in Aluminum (or steel) would keep it from warping and be lots stronger. Make sure you counter sink heads and nyloc bolts to keep them from backing out. Wouldn't need to go the entire length but need to know where the current support points are and how much in front of each support and behind.

Example if you had this type of set-up: From back to front. 3 ft then support than 5 ft then support than 2 ft currently 2x6 width is parallel to hull. If that was the set-up I would say 3.5 ft square tubing would be enough to stiffen up the middle 5 ft section and still allow it to flex some for loading.

If your supports are perpendicular (width side is perp to hull) then really just need to get new boards.

[JayM5209]

gonz, I wouldn't try to talk you out of the project you're contemplating, but are you sure your bunks need modified or replaced? I have a ShoreLandr under my 2008 1625 Rebel that I bought new in April '08. The full length of the bunks have never been in contact with the hull, neither the original boards nor the Ultimate Bunkboards I replaced them with several years ago. Don't know what boat/motor combo you have but - except for much larger and heavier glass boats/trailers - it is common for bunk boards to be away from the hull at the center section. In my case, if the boat is firmly tied down, including a bow tie-down in addition to the winch strap so the boat does not bounce, I think it is perfectly well supported even though the center part of the boards is not in contact with the hull.

Just a thought . . .

[TNtroller]

Since the bunks are sagging, a simple solution would be to make up new bunks that are straight and true when you make them, and then either double up on the bunk boards in between the supports for the sections that are currently sagging on the bottom/lower side of the bunks, or install another 2x4 perpendicular to the actual new bunk (imagine a T). Just have to recess the bolts so they won't scratch/damage the hull but the 2x4 would not flex/sag when attached to the wider bunk the hull would rest on.