Lund 1775 impact 1775 trailering problems

[snopro31]

time to get bunks. no issues with my impact staying straight.

[delbay66]

I can't use bunks..I fish saltwater and lund told me that if I use bunks the saltwater soaked carpet on the bunks will cause pin holes in the bottom. That is what my district rep. for Lund told me. Other lund dealers have told me the same thing. If I could use bunks I would. But also if my dealer would have taken the time to set the trailer up before I got it maybe this problem wouldn't exist. I met a man last week at the ramp and he has the pin hole problem with his Lund. He uses a bunk trailer.

[Lazy Ike]

What about bunks with Glyde Sliks? Remove the carpet. My side guides are close. Not much more than an inch total space. Your situation I would want them high and long. You could use the Sliks there also.

[Johnboy]

A pair of Bullseye Quickloads will solve your problem. I bought two pair for my trailer because my boat ramp is in a river with a strong current. http://www.bullseyequickload.com/

[Knorble]

I do not know how you can blame shorelander for the trailer that a manufactuer has chosen to use with a certain model of boat. Lund must know that this trailer and boat combo are not a good match. and should use another trailer of any brand to get a better trailering set-up.

[REW]

Delbay,
If you run in salt water, and if you use carpeted side guide, you really want to remove those carpeted side guides and replace them with rollers for the same reason that you do not want to use bunks under the hull. i.e. salt water and potential corrosion issues.

For example - one or more pairs of these roller side guides:

https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-3...+guide+rollers

With respect to the adjustment of the side guides.
Many hulls have a bulge - so to speak in the hulls near the middle of the boat. i.e. a location in the hull some where between the bow and stern, where the hull is wider than any other location in the boat.

If you find that location, and then, with the hull perfectly centered, you can adjust the side rollers to be about 1/4 inch away from the hull on each side.

But, then remember, that if you have other side guide rollers on your boat in a more aft position, they can not be any closer to the hull, than the ones that are set for the widest spot on your hull, or you will never be able to load the boat and get the wide spot in the hull past the more closely spaced side guide rollers.

But, I would guess, that if you have your bottom rollers equally spaced side to side and up to down, and if you have the widest side guide rollers just touching the sides of the hull, or nearly so, that you would have a pretty well centered boat each time that you would load the boat.

p.s.
Remember, that an aluminum boat hull gets its strengths from the rails, and stiffeners on the bottom of the hull. As a result, you want to try to have your rollers as close as possible to these stiffener locations. In between these locations, the aluminum hull is less stiff and is less able to take the stress from the rollers holding the hull in the air.

Be safe

Make sure that when you back the trailer in the water that the rollers are not under water. This will cause the boat to float when trying to load and you will never get it on straight. Other than that I would measure the roller arms to make sure they are the same distance from the frame on both sides.

[buller56]

My 1775 Impact and Shorelander trailer was doing the same thing. What I found on the Shorelander site was that you move the roller bank on the opposite side of where the boat is touching out slightly. On mine it was about 3/4". I found out also if you load the trailer with the livewells full the boat loads in a different position