Lighten up?

[Bad Santa]

The main problem with 30# could be the lines ability to absorb the shock of a backlash. I have seen 50# separate when a backlash shortens a cast with a 1 ish ounce swim bait. Good luck

[pale ryder]

On my light musky rod, actually a bass rod, I use 35# Cortland Spectron. And it works great.
But Power Pro is not as shock resistant as Cortland. I tried 40# Power Pro on that same rod and broke off a 2' pike on a hook set. I have also tried PP, and other braids, in 30-100# and switched back to Cortland Spectron/Masterbraid in 35 50 65 and 80#.The Cortland is better in that others in the areas of, shock resistance, abrasion resistance, casting distance, fewer backlashes, and less digging into itself on the spool. So I highly recommend you try it.

[DocDug]

I only go Muskie fishing once a year but here are my 2 cents worth. I live and fish out of Pensacola Florida. Muskies are big game and can tire you out but there are creatures that we catch on very similar tackle that will flat-a$$ whoop ya. The absolute critical point that is most often over looked is the max drag on your reel. If I have a max drag of say 20# any line over 30# should work just fine. Yes, snap-offs on casts are easier with lighter line, but you can only recover a fish quickly that doesn't exercise the reel drag. Now most folks don't really service their reel drag systems properly. I won't go into detail but if your interested check out a blog site just all about reel maintenance and reel rebuilding. Google up "Alan Tani fishing reels" and you will be amazed. Good fishing and keep doing your arm exercises if you're going for one of those 40# drag reels. They do exist.

[Bill Krejca]

I have seen two different baits on two successive casts snapped off and lost, due to the quick snap of the cast while using a "medium" lb test braid. On the third cast, after again retying ,my friend slowed down his cast, and did not lose any more after that. Braid just does not absorb much of the shock while casting. I'd be more concerned about the casting than break off by a fish.

Bill

[KraTToR]

Originally Posted by Rich_K

I've been using 50# PP but I'm going to dial down one setup to 30# PP this year. Over the years I've had a lot of luck with smaller bucktails (Mepps #5) and this year I want to increase my casting distance. The rod I'm using is a 7'6" MH St. Croix that I really like so I'm sticking with that but I've switched the reel out for a wide spool low profile bass reel. The drag and gearing on the reel I chose should hold up to the lures I'm throwing and the fish but I'm wondering if the 30# is too light.

Comments? Is anyone using 30# braid for musky?

Poster's Note: I'm guessing the musky purists may poo poo the bass reel idea but these smaller bucktails have been excellent search baits over the years and have caught a lot of fish. Plus I couldn't pass up the deal I got on the reel for this experiment

The 50lb PP Super Slick maybe what you're looking for...

[mcbreth]

I used 20# mono muskie fishing for a lot of years. You can throw bucktails up to 6 in all day long. With the right rod it is a deadly combination ( I have an 8ft MF St Croix that I really like). Make sure you check the last 8-10 feet of line religiously and freshen up your knots regularly.

Don't even think about the big rubber or double 10's though....

[BreezyPoint]

Originally Posted by Rich_K

I've been using 50# PP but I'm going to dial down one setup to 30# PP this year. Over the years I've had a lot of luck with smaller bucktails (Mepps #5) and this year I want to increase my casting distance. The rod I'm using is a 7'6" MH St. Croix that I really like so I'm sticking with that but I've switched the reel out for a wide spool low profile bass reel. The drag and gearing on the reel I chose should hold up to the lures I'm throwing and the fish but I'm wondering if the 30# is too light.



Comments? Is anyone using 30# braid for musky?



Poster's Note: I'm guessing the musky purists may poo poo the bass reel idea but these smaller bucktails have been excellent search baits over the years and have caught a lot of fish. Plus I couldn't pass up the deal I got on the reel for this experiment

I have been using narrow spool reels and 25 pound mono for over thirty years. Never had a break off or a shortage of line and I've caught muskies in the 100s. Meanwhile, I've had many friends throwing hi-test no -stretch line with many break offs. That little stretch in mono is a life saver.

I should also add that I bring the fish fast to the boat...they are never overplayed. I consider the need for ultra high test non stretch line part of the 'Muskie macho' mystique.


Frank

[DocDug]

There is a really great article from the past written by Len Hartman, "Picking The Right Rod For Muskie." If you look at equipment that was available at his time and see the logic to some of what he has to say, you can make some of this ideas apply to muskie fishing today. What caught my eye was his statement for every pound of line weight you should be able to catch 10 pounds of fish. He goes on to say that by using 50 pound line you should be able to land a 500 pound fish. I don't know if I'd go that far but back in the 1950's the rule-of-thumb was that line weight times 3 would equal your fish weight capacity. In other words 30 pound line should be able to handle a 90 pound fish. Now to this thread topic. I looked up the max drag capability based on manufacturer info for several notable Muskie reels. Shimano Calcutta D 11-15#, Calcutta B 9.5-16.5#, Revo Toro NaCl 22#, Penn International 975 12#, 6500-C3 15#, and Morrum 15#. The arguments for using heavier line to reduce the risk of castoffs is very true. However, if a fish takes you around a stump of other obstacle your reel drag and rod flex are taken out of the picture. In this situation there would be some agreement that heavier line would hold up better to abrasion and you might then get untangled without a break-off. I know I've passed my rod around barnacle encrusted dock pilings and still caught the fish but I doubt I could do that with a snag that was very deep. Your lucky if the fish swims out of the snag but most times it results in a break-off and you really don't know if the fish escapes or is trapped or is carrying the lure around in its jaw. Based on the drag information it is evident that you can only put so much pressure on a fishing fighting in open water. When your fish can exercise the reel drag it doesn't make any difference if you have 30, 50, or 80# line. You will only be able to get the fish to boat when it tires out to the point that your drag wins. Of course that depends on your reel drag and if it is well maintained. So read Len's article and what I've added is, I hope, food for logical thought.