lund Impact jump seat problem

[andersaki]

I bought this boat used last fall. I was aware of the problem when I got it but I'm just finishing with all the rigging and this is next on the list. The edges and especially the corners of the jump seat rub against the sides of the rod lockers when they are folded up or down (see pics).The result is torn carpet on the corners of the seats. The carpet is glued over the 3/4" aluminium angle frame. It is obviously built too tight. I could just repair the carpet, but the end result would be the same. I think that even if I peened down the edge of the aluminium angle it wouldn't be enough. Another possible fix is to find some plastic channel that would fit over the edge of the jump seats so that they would glide instead of rub. I think that one inch channel would fit over the carpeted aluminum. I will use the jump seats a few times a year for family outings, but when we fish the seats are folded down and the platform is used for fishing. Has anyone else on WC with Lund jump seat had a similar issue? I'm looking for ideas for fixes. Any help will be appreciated. The boat is a 2011 1775 Impact so warranty is obviously out of play.

andersaki

[Bakefish]

I've got a 2015 Impact and I'm beginning to see that problem. Right now it is just frayed, but looking at your pictures I think I see my future. I'll be interested to see if anyone has a solution.

[MERCONLY]

Its not really a design problem but it is kind of a design problem, can you shave down the carpet edges to free it up? I sold 100s of those and they all do that, other brands ive noticed gave themselves more room on the sides with a small gap

[REW]

The solution is simple, Use a razor or carpet knife to trim the carpet back flush with the ends of the jump seat.

Then, install a piece of 1/16th thick by 3/4 inch by 3/4 inch aluminum angle.

If you are careful, you can carefully measure the length and width of the jump seat, so that you can just make 45 degree cuts on one side of the aluminum angle for each of the top corners of the jump seat. Then, use a vise to hold the aluminum angle stable, right at the location where the angle needs to be bent. Then, bend what will be the top side of each of the aluminum channel to 90 degrees.

This will mean that there will be aluminum wrapped around each of the upper edges, and the 2 45 degree cuts will come together on each of the top edges. The 1/16th aluminum channel is considerably thinner than the current carpeted edge, and the aluminum channel will prevent the carpet that is over the rest of the edge to unravel. If the jump seat is a piece of formed aluminum, I would think that about 6 pop rivets would nicely hold the now newly formed U piece of aluminum channel to the cleaned up edges of the jump seat which before installing the new aluminum angled edge will not have any carpet on that edge.

The aluminum channel will likely cost about $5 or so.

Two pieces of this, some time with a hack saw and a vise and some pop rivets should solve your problems permanently.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-...1377/204273984

[andersaki]

REW,

Thanks for the good idea. I just went out in the garage and measured the seats. The 1/16" thick aluminum channel minus the carpet thickness should gain 1/16 - 3/32"on each side plus a smooth surface to glide on the carpeted rod locker. I am, however going to look for some 1" wide channel so that it will fit over the carpet on the front and back sides eliminating the unfinished edge of the carpet.

andersaki

[DLM10]

I used some of this type stair nose trim. It comes in several styles and colors to help match the carpet. I put it in areas where people like to rest their feet so it wouldn't wear the carpet.

http://www.kofflersales.com/images/products/161L3.jpg

[Franco Cialone]

my 2012 Rebel XL SS has those jump seats and mine still look like new, i have none of that wear, the seats and or hinge are not aligned correctly.

[Darrenf442]

It has to be re carpeted so id fix it properly by removing the deck , stripping off the carpet and taking it down to a fab shop and getting them to angle down the sides instead of being straight down. May cost 300 bucks but you will never have that issue again. My impact jump seats are angled on the sides.

Or just take a 2x4 ( or what ever ) and a large hammer and hit were it rubs, providing the sides are aluminium, Bending in the sides slightly will give you the clearance needed and will be hardly noticeable if you take your time and be patient.

Id go with option 1. Picture is my impact jumpseat

[andersaki]

I went to the sports show in Minneapolis yesterday and talked with the Lund rep. He said that the back of the jump seats are made with a single sheet of aluminum with the edges bent at 90 degrees to give it strength. The newer Impacts and probably other models with the flip seats are now made with the edges tapered in as Darrenf442's picture shows. I had considered REW's method but it's just too tight of a fit. My plan is to strip back the carpet and cut the aluminum to the desired angle, being careful to leave enough material to form the 90 degree el. Then I'll use my hand brake to re-bend the el, deburr the edges and reglue or replace the carpet.

andersaki

[andersaki]

I thought that I would post the final result of my jump seat issue as I am sure some of you may have the same problem with your boat. I'm not sure when Lund changed their design, but obviously many were made like mine before they corrected it. I did email Lund customer service for any technical advice that they could offer, but have never heard back from them. I removed the jump seat from the boat and unscrewed the upolstered seats. With a heat gun and a putty knife I was able to strip back the carpet, taking care not to rip it. Then with a wire brush on a 4" angle grinder I cleaned up the remnants of the old glue. So far all of this took less than 90 minutes. A retired friend of mine, who is a talented fabricator and aluminum welder cut the metal back 2" on top and tapered it down. He then welded the angle portion back on and ground it smooth. I trimmed the carpet to fit and glued it back on. Possibly it could have been bent, but my friend choose to weld it. I re - installed it this morning and it looks good and works as it should. The only costs incurred was $120 for welding, but I'm sure he gave me a good deal. Pardon my pictures if they are not rotated properly.

andersaki