Converting older roller trailer to bunks?

[theflatlander]

Thanks again for all your help REW. I am not afraid to do the work myself. I just dont like having to make a bunch of mistakes and fix things when I could of done them right in the first place. Thats why I ask so many questions.

Believe me I looked hard at just replacing the front set of rollers with something with similar or a small set of bunk and had a good idea but if you remember from my pics at all from when I was showing the back set of rollers?

http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps5a8fe491.jpg

I know this photo sucks but this is the back set of rollers obviously and you can tell the minimal clearance i have in between the two sets of rollers. when my boat is sitting perfectly in the rollers the way it should be and i have everything strapped down i have about 2" of clearance with boat riding over the fenders. The must of designed it like this to sit as low as it possibly could. Both the left and right side back rollers and brackets seem to be in good shape. the problem is with the back set of rollers the only way I can adjust the height is from moving them side to side. I have on up and down adjustment

Adding to the problem of no height adjusment of back left and right side roller sets is the old version of the keel roller bracket as you see in this pic

http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/z...psf0b8bc03.jpg

This bracket has no ears that come up like new versions do where the roller shaft mounts onto. In this picture the boat is also sitting perfectly level on the the rollers when the trailer is level.
Basically to use the new style keel roller brackets compared to this old one I have to jack my rollers up another two inches or do the same if I add bunks. I dont have the play with the back rollers unless I have some type of shim made and buy new U bolts.

You really have me questioning just getting rid of the middle keel roller all together throw on cross member pad and running bunks from the front cross brace to the middle cross brace. I understand the factor of the keel roller and it should be taking some of the weight but If I did go without it ran bunks like I said the bunks should still have enough support with keel roller shouldnt I? If not its time to run full length bunks and the trailer run three braces on each bunk instead of two and run three keel rollers.

So my last question is with the self centering roller and buying the bracket they suggest to purchase. why is there so much play in between the bracket and roller? That just totally makes no sense to me when its suppose to be centering the boat.

Again thanks for all the help REW. I just want to get this done right this spring because I dont plan on upgrading to a new boat any time soon.

[REW]

Flat,
I see that you have the new Stoltz roller installed on your trailer.

1. first of all, do what ever is required, so that you have your boat perfectly centered on the rear of the trailer.

2. Remove the Bracket with the stoltz roller on it, and remove the axle for the roller.
Cut pieces of pvc pipe of the appropriate length so that you have only about 1/4 inch side to side play in the roller between the ears of the bracket.

3. Replace the roller and insure that you have at least two or three hundred lbs of hull weight on the roller when you finish the installation.

4. Then, with the rear of the boat perfectly centered, and the middle of the boat perfectly centered, insure that the other rollers are exactly centered from side to side.
Also, if you have worn out centers in any of the wobble rollers on your trailer, remove and replace the worn rollers before you start this adjustment.

5. If your rear rollers aren't worn, and if the rear rollers are exactly centered from side to side on the trailer, and are as low as possible, I would think you should be very close to having a good loading boat.

Also, I see that you have side guide rollers on the trailer. Most boats are a bit wider in the center of the boat than they are at the rear of the boat. Adjust the side rollers so that they are as close as possible to the boat to help center the boat and still allow the boat to nicely slide onto the trailer. Again, do the side roller adjustment, with the boat perfectly centered on the boat.

By the way, if you need to do side to side adjustments on the boat, it is a simple matter to do, if you hook a chain in each of the rear tie downs on the transom and hook a chain hoist in the middle and hang the hoist from an appropriate beam. That way you can lift the boat off the trailer, to insure that it is perfectly centered, and to slowly lower it as needed while you are doing your roller adjustment. Have the hitch on the front of the trailer hooked up to a vehicle so that the front of the trailer does not swing from side to side of you do this procedure.

p.s.
During all of this procedure, be sure that you have 0 worn rollers on the trailer. The axles and brackets do not wear on roller trailer. The only things that wear are the rollers. Replace as needed. If you have slop in the rollers, you won't be able to get consistent loading of the boat.


Be safe

[New One]

theflatlander,

If several internal "centering molded" washers broke free, and now "fully" float inside the roller, depending how many, and which side...you're creating destabilization, and centering problems.

Instead of rotating within a 3/4" hole...you're floating in a 1.5" diameter hole...all over the trailer where the rollers are...all tugging at each other, or some offering "no resistance" to allow proper centering...then the boat goes where, and the way it wants to based on where the weight is..... pull the cotter pin, washer, and remove the "Rollers" one at a time...I believe you will not be able to tell this "floating washer" failure (condition) unless you pull each roller, and try to push the washer around inside the roller....



http://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer...er/YR440R.html

Hope this helps, by the way REW, you've helped me many times with your great ideas & advice...kudos, Sir...

Could be a major cause, and reason why the boat will not center correctly time after time. Also, remember one can have the keel roller brackets re-welded inexpensively, if they are starting to show cracks...or have cracks
from loading, rolling down a bumpy highway, road, etc.. This welding can be accomplished right on the empty trailer rather quickly....

New One

[theflatlander]

Took some more pictures that I can upload tomorrow. Really started looking closer at my trailer again and I only have two cross members. Thought it was three. going to end up going with bunks and keel rollers.

[REW]

If you have just the two cross bars, then add a 2nd 12 inch stolts centering roller for the 2nd roller in addition to the bunks that you are installing.

Good luck

[theflatlander]

going to start the transformation of the trailer this weekend. I wish I could find a better picture looking from the transom side and underneath a bunk trailer with a similar sized boat on the trailer. I tried googling a bunch of pics but keep coming up short.

I am having a hard time deciding if I want the bunks to be on the inside or outside of the ribs on the hull. I am leaning toward putting them on the inside but I am just not sure. Suggestions or could anyone show a me a good pic of a boat/trailer similar to my set up with a good underneath pic?

[theflatlander]

I got it done. Turned out awesome, and I think it will function great. I will try to take some pics tomorrow and post them.