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  #21  
Old 10-26-2009, 07:17 PM
MarkG MarkG is offline
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Terroreyes,,,,some time ago I posted a question about grease types but did not get a definitive answer. Maybe you can help...

Is the calcium sulfonate definitely better to use than Lithium base? I have been using Lucas "Red and Tacky" lithium for several years with good results.

If I switch,what brands out there are Calcium Sulfonate and should I do a complete disassembly and cleanout to switch? Unlikley they are compatible?
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  #22  
Old 10-26-2009, 07:59 PM
Terroreyes Terroreyes is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkG View Post
Terroreyes,,,,some time ago I posted a question about grease types but did not get a definitive answer. Maybe you can help...

Is the calcium sulfonate definitely better to use than Lithium base? I have been using Lucas "Red and Tacky" lithium for several years with good results.

If I switch,what brands out there are Calcium Sulfonate and should I do a complete disassembly and cleanout to switch? Unlikley they are compatible?

In a marine application, absolutely. Don't get me wrong, lithium greases work fine under normal operating conditions for marine applications. Where calcium sulfonates shine is on corrosion protection, water resistance, and upper temp limits. Lithiums can't tolerate as high of temps. As far as water resistance, you have two different concepts. The lithium grease relies on a polymer additive to make it tacky and water resistance. Works great for repelling water, but if you do get water into the hub, it will separate and you'll have a pocket of just water sitting on the bearing and race. In those conditions, lithiums rely on additives to provide corrosion protection and can be consumed in storage conditions. And the corrosion additives can also have negative impact on wear and oxidation resistance. Calcium sulfonate on the other hand, doesn't repel water, it readily accepts it. BUT, the sulfonate thickener system, by nature is corrosion resistant, and it can absorb 50-100% of it's weight in water and still give excellent corrosion proctection and have no free water in the hub. Similar wear protection to lithium when no water is present, but outperforms lithium when contaminated with water.
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  #23  
Old 10-26-2009, 08:12 PM
MarkG MarkG is offline
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Thanks,,sounds like something for me to consider.

Got a brand recommendation??
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  #24  
Old 10-26-2009, 08:32 PM
Terroreyes Terroreyes is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkG View Post
Thanks,,sounds like something for me to consider.

Got a brand recommendation??
I buy Lubrimatic, or refill at work with the same stuff.
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  #25  
Old 02-26-2010, 09:28 PM
dmack dmack is offline
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Default inner seals

When completely tearing down to clean and repack what is the best way to get that inner seal out? It seems like I have to drive it out of the hub by reaching through the hub with a long tool like a blunt flat tip. It seems like it is possible to damage the bearing through this process. Does anybody have any tricks for this step?

dmack
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  #26  
Old 02-27-2010, 03:05 AM
chitterchad chitterchad is offline
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There's a tool for pull the seal, I bought mine from Auto Zone for around $5.00, it works great. I use to use a wooden dowel, but one time I damaged a bearing, when I went to buy the bearing that when I got the seal puller.
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  #27  
Old 02-27-2010, 09:49 PM
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TomP. TomP. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmack View Post
When completely tearing down to clean and repack what is the best way to get that inner seal out? It seems like I have to drive it out of the hub by reaching through the hub with a long tool like a blunt flat tip. It seems like it is possible to damage the bearing through this process. Does anybody have any tricks for this step?

dmack


To pull the inside seal out what I do is after I have the outer bearing out. I slip the nut back on and give a yank to the hub assembly and it pops the inside seal right out.
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  #28  
Old 11-04-2012, 01:19 PM
Riley58 Riley58 is offline
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Good and timing thread guys - I have a bear trailer with Safe-T-Lube bearings but my question pertains to all wheel bearing systems. Question is: how do I know what type of wheel bearing seals to purchase ?

Do I need to pull apart and then walk into my local auto parts store to source the seals? OR look for a part number on them?

I've tried to buy via by boat dealer and they can't seem to get Bear Trailer to respond with either selling me the seals OR a part number. What the heck. I'm a little frustrated with this.
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  #29  
Old 11-04-2012, 07:21 PM
4JawChuck 4JawChuck is offline
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To repack my bearings I remove the hubs and pry off the seal, I then temporarily reinstall the hub and bearing buddy onto the spindle...you don't need the nut to do this trick.

Next pump fresh grease through the buddy until all the old grease is pumped out the back. Remove the hub after you knock the buddy off, wipe off the old grease and put on a new seal, they are around $2 each around here.

The rest you can figure out, I do this once a year and costs less than $10 including the grease. The best part is you get a fresh seal every year which is the one weak point in the system and you get a chance to adjust the bearing preload setting every year, I examine the expended grease for metal particles and water intrusion as a precaution.

Easy repack.
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  #30  
Old 11-05-2012, 01:26 PM
walcat walcat is offline
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I use Bearing Buddies. Check the hubs every stop. Never hot, just warm.When the buddy cap is all the way in I give it a couple shots,never over do it. Pulled my bearings yesterday. Washed every thing very clean. Looked at bearings under magnifying glass and checked them closly. 15 years and they look brand new. Used a lot. Repacked and reassembled!
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