Looking for new (to me) used Zero Turn mower...

[Kdawg1966]

I know there are already a couple of recent threads on this subject, and I have utilized the search function here, as well as at a couple other sites, but haven't solved the issue specific to me. I have a few questions but will give you a little background first:

I have a smaller yard, but my house is a walkout that's on the corner of a street, so I have a hill that wraps around my entire yard, which is about .4 acre. My wife and I have both had it with pushing the lawn, which takes about 45 minutes to an hour (hills, trees and landscaping). I have been looking at used mowers and it seems like there are a few to choose from that might work. Given my smallish lawn, I'm not looking for the best of the best (so unlike me), I just want something that will do a decent job in much less time and effort.

I've noticed a few used one's for sale:

Toro SS models, some 32, others 42 and 50 inch.

Cub Cadet Z force: 42 and 50 inch.

Cub Cadet 1042 and 1046 zero turns - these are tractor style mowers.



I have seen this one new, which is right at 2 grand:

Simplicity Axion 42 inch

All the used one's vary from 20 hours to 300 hours and the price varies from 1500 to 2 grand.

Any pro's/con's regarding the above-mentioned mowers?

Also, I'm assuming I will be able to buy a bagger for all the above mowers so I can use it in the fall to pick up leaves. Is this a safe assumption? I'm guessing it would be much faster than raking?

Lastly, is the steering system on most of the mowers (dual levers) easy to get used to -vs- the steering wheel system?

Many thanks in advance.

[Burr]

I purchased a Cub Cadet Z Force 50 inch - somewhere around 5-7 years ago. I also do not have a large lawn - but I've got a couple rental properties that are in the same neighborhood that I live. Mowing the 3 lawns used to be an all afternoon affair with a push mower, now I can mow, and drive back and forth in about 1-1.5 hours.

If your looking at used, finding one that already has a bagger would be a big savings. The bagger for mine was $600+.

I use it for picking up leaves, but I mulch the leaves first, then pick them up with the rider. At least I do that for the primary leaf pickup in the fall. If I'm cleaning up on a second or third pass, then I'll just pick them up without mulching. Mulching first cuts down on the number of bags (and thus the number of times you have to stop) to about 1/3. It is extremely fast as compared to raking, and not nearly the work. Not all zero turns have baggers (at least they did not when I was buying years ago). The availability of the bagger was a big consideration when I chose the brand I chose. Just keep in mind - this was quite a few years ago.

My mower is a dirty mower to use - the bearing mount locations on the deck are in my words, open air. So the blades create suction, and dust is blown right out the top of the deck. If your on a thick lawn, no problem. If you have a thin, dirt exposed area - it's a dust storm. They may have changed the deck design since I purchased mine. Mine is a stamped deck. At the same time, I'm sure that air leak on the top of the deck is what also creates really good air flow on the Cub Cadet too...

For me, learning to drive the stick control zero turn was fast, easy. But then I grew up on the farm, operating all kinds of equipment. The downside is, my wife won't even consider trying to run it. If it had steering wheel, show would. The zero turn part is a barrier for her.

A 50" will not fit through many fenced yard gates - not sure if that is a consideration for you. 42" decks will fit through most gates.

Mine has a 23 hp Kohler - completely trouble free. After having just push mowers prior to this, it's surprising how much gas a 23 hp mower uses. Get a 5 gallon can, you'll use it...

The only breakdowns I've had - Replaced deck belt last year. Replaced front center roller about 2 years ago. Once had a safety switch, starting problem - where the levers push to the outside, there is a switch that allows running/starting when not on the seat switch. Mine bent, I bent it back, it's mounted on pretty flimsey steel. I'll have a problem with it again.

I do not have a great deal of trees, and my ground is flat. I can get right next to all my trees, so the only trimming is with a weed wacker.

After owning a mid-mount, zero turn, for years - I would seriously look at a front mount zero turn if I were to purchase another rider. The front mount would be better around trees, easier deck servicing, and I think it would result in less wheel tear on the lawn. Anyone who tells you that the way the mower is operated will eliminate any damage to the lawn from the wheel tear is lying, or operating different equipment. You will get lawn damage from wheel tear, expecially where you have to turn in the same place, every time you mow. Because of wheel tear, I'm starting to use my push mower for my lawn, and rider for the rentals - more and more. Happy wife, happy life...

Hopefully some of what I've said will be good for your considerations.

[Kdawg1966]

Originally Posted by Burr

Hopefully some of what I've said will be good for your considerations.

Tons of great info. Thanks a bunch.

[Burr]

And - the primary difference between the Cub Z Force, and the less expensive model - is the Z Force has a hydraulic drive motor on each rear wheel. The less expensive Cub (not "Z-Force") has only one hydraulic drive motor. Easy to see when visually inspecting, but hard to notice if you're not looking for it.