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  #11  
Old 06-30-2010, 02:21 PM
ChuckD ChuckD is offline
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The water was drained and unused from October until April.

The well line from the house to the well is about 6' underground (as I can see the well line come in at the floor level, and I know the grade outside with a window). I can't imagine the well pipe burst being that deep underground with a heavy blanket of snow all winter.

I kept the house lightly heated through the winter, but not residing there.

I know several seasonal cabin owners that own similar systems and never have a problem.

I'm trying to start with simple trial and error suggestions before digging real deep.
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  #12  
Old 06-30-2010, 02:55 PM
Modog Modog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MK lowly guest View Post
About 10 years ago (my house and well was 30 yr. old at the time) I had a similar problem.

When I opened the top of the well head I could see a small stream of water leaking from one of the galvanized fittings connecting the plastic pipe to the pitless adapter. It was spraying water against the inside of the well pipe. Pump would cycle about every 5 minutes.

Well repair man had to pull the well and pipe up a few feet to replace some rusted fittings which took care of the problem. Cost about $150 if I remember correctly.
I had the exact same thing happen to mine. Must be a common problem...
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  #13  
Old 07-01-2010, 12:08 PM
Jerryv Jerryv is offline
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You say you closed the main valve. Is that between the well and the pressure tank or between the pressure tank and the house? If it is between the well and the pressure tank then the leak is probably in the house somewhere. If it is between the pressure tank and the house then the leak is probably in the well.

If the pump turns on every 5 minutes then it is a substantial leak unless your pressure tank is waterlogged. I think you would have found a flooded area unless it is in the well. I had a well pipe rust through in the old well at my house. A friend of mine had the check valve in his pump fail. Both caused similar symptoms.

Jerry
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  #14  
Old 07-01-2010, 12:24 PM
ChuckD ChuckD is offline
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The main valve is beyond the pressure tank...between the pressure tank and the plumbing to the entire house.

The house lines are not the issue. I lose pressure with the main valve turned off.

I don't see a check valve anywhere, so it's either in/near the well or I don't know what to look for.

I haven't had time to pull the cover off the well to have look, but I will soon.

The air bladder inside the pressure tank is fine. It's holding good pressure when there is no pressure in the entire system. I'm losing complete pressure shutting the well pump down with the breaker switch.

Time for a professional if I can't find the obvious. Thanks for the help and all the suggestions!
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  #15  
Old 07-01-2010, 12:44 PM
MK lowly guest
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Most submersible pumps have an integral check valve but there is often a second check valve near the inlet of the pressure tank. The one on my system is brass, about 2" diameter and 4" long and is installed in line with the black plastic line from the pump about a foot or two back from the P-tank.

If you don't have a check valve between the basement wall and the pressure tank, you may only have the one in the pump. The system may be draining back into the well if the pump check valve is faulty or if it has sucked up sand or debris.

Good luck.
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  #16  
Old 07-12-2010, 02:46 PM
ChuckD ChuckD is offline
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Just thought I'd give an update.

Pressure tank was bad, but wasn't the main cause for the pressure leak.

We pulled the pump out, inspected and everything was in great condition and held pressure on that end.

From there, he checked the outside hydrant and ultimately found the hydrant's pipe connection failed 7' underground. A backhoe and another hour of time problems were fixed. Thinking something hit it as the hydrant was quite loose above ground.

I learned a lot about wells from this experience. I just don't really want to see the bill.....

Thanks for all the help and comments..
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