re carpeting bunks

[BroadwayBill]

If I was going to use wood again for for a straight bunk I would use Iron Wood decking. I would not use cedar under any circumstances. It is too soft. White oak would last longer but soaking it and drying it repeatedly causes it to crack. Use a composite if you can or Iron Wood. You will get a lifetime of use from either.

Bill

[jpr2003]

I am currently doing the same thing to my trailer. I contacted Shorelandr and what they told me is they use nothing but yellow pine for their bunks and that I shouldn't seal it but to let it dry naturally. They told me they can't/don't use treated due to environmental concerns and that it has a tendency to warp badly.
Take the info for what its worth but this is what the trailer manufacturer told me.

[JayM5209]

Originally Posted by hawg

Jay, they still hold your boat tight at launch? How about leaving the lake, even winched, do the slide sideways or anywhere?

I have a 1625 Rebel XL SS w/ 50 horse Merc and all the usual stuff loaded. I do not unhook the winch strap until the trailer is in far enough that I can push the boat off w/out getting wet feet. Or, if the ramp is steeper until the back end floats and I don't need to push. Once loaded, it has never moved while pulling up the ramp to a place to tie everything down. I have found them to be easier to launch and load than carpeted bunks. They're a bit slick, but not dangerously so.

Incidentally, the huge advantage for me is that my Rebel never once loaded straight, from the day I brought it home new until I installed the Ultimate Bunk Boards. From the 1st trip with the UBBs it has never failed to load dead center, right up to the bow stop, and w/out that old juggling side to side that I had to do before. Can't give you an explanation, but they solved my loading problems.

[Babamel2]

When I redid mine, I used new Western Cedar wood. Which you take your pick on what kind of wood to use. What i also did was to take the ends of the boards and rubbed a candle on the wood to cover them with the wax. after that I took my torch and gently heated the wax so it soaked into the wood. I did this several times before putting the carpet on. I think this minimizes the amount of water that will be absorbed into the wood.

[4JawChuck]

Aren't those ultimate bunk boards just strips of Uhmw or are they impregnated with fibers?

You could just texture it with hammer/punch and back it with a piece of AL angle for support.

It's what they make snowmobile sliders from.

[JayM5209]

Originally Posted by 4JawChuck

Aren't those ultimate bunk boards just strips of Uhmw or are they impregnated with fibers?

You could just texture it with hammer/punch and back it with a piece of AL angle for support.

It's what they make snowmobile sliders from.

From the UBB web site - "Our boards are made of high-density polyethelene with a UV inhibitor added to help prevent fading." I don't know anything about plastics, but am guessing it's a form of UHMW. The boards are textured on one side.

Personally, I wouldn't stiffen them in any way. If they conform to the curve of the hull, the weight is distributed along the board rather than most of it falling on just a short portion(s) of the board.

[4JawChuck]

That's nice to know, I can get this locally in stock...UV stabilized is a standard type all plastic suppliers stock.

If you want a really slippery UHMW you can order a type called "dry slide" that's impregnated with moly and graphite, could probably launch with one finger once they got wet.

Who needs rollers!

[labsrus]

I used treated wood and the carpet pieces from a indoor outdoor carpet in the past.

No issues but the carpet seems to wear pretty fast.

I replaced the carpet last year with the bunk carpet from Bass Pro

I used stainless staples to attach the carpet to the bunks.

When I dock the boat each year while at a cottage in Canada it allows me to do a good job checking the trailer for any issues. Every few years I take a rattle can and touch up any rust spots on the trailer