2007 Lund Pro V Transom replacement- Project complete

[walleye.bill]

2007 Lund Pro V transom replacement. Well I must say this was the project of all projects and more than I ever want to see of my Lund again. After a 3 day weekend and some very long hours we got it done. I would have honestly not even looked if it wasn’t for reading the post on here recently about Lund and their rotten transoms. I have wave whackers and it’s hard to see behind them unless you really look. When I did look I found gaps on the cap and the transom no longer looked straight. The following are a few pictures of what we found and a step by step of what we did.
The beginning:
We removed the motors and took off the top cap. The wood was so rotten you could stick your finger in it. (See picture below). In order to get the wood out you have a choice of either cutting the rails back or dealing with the 100,s of rivets used to hold the top cap on and remove it completely. We cut back the rails and pried up the plate. (See pic below). The next thing we did was cut 2 more access holes in the splashwell. You must get access to all the bolts across the transom so that means digging out all the foam through the new access holes. The only alternative was again many rivets and removing the entire splashwell.

Prepping:
Once we got the old wood out (See pic below, it was terrible)it was time for prep work, We were able to remove the wood in one piece and I used it as a template. I took 2 pieces of ¾ inch marine grade plywood and glued them together to get the 1 ½ inch board. After cutting it to shape and drilling all the holes it was coated in marine grade epoxy resin (See pic below). I also epoxied in a sheet of aluminum through the middle where the motors hang just for strength. We then did what we could to straighten any aluminum and removed anything in the way of the reinstall.

Finishing up:
We slid the new sheet in and for the most part it was a very good fit. Everything was then re bolted using lock nuts which they didn’t use and 5200m sealant. For the sides we had to bend them back down and reattach the cut rails (I may have these welded by someone good in the future). We had a little waviness in the aluminum and that’s why I added the non-slip black rubber to cover up any blemishes (See pics below).

For the most part this was a difficult job and unless you have the proper equipment would not be possible. It took a lot of time and effort but I believe it is better now than it was from the factory.

[walleye.bill]

More pics.

[undguy]

Nice work Bill. I like the looks of the non-slip pads. Even though lots of work, the peace of mind should be well worth it.

[mrwalleye5]

Bill, Do you know what the main factor that contributed to the obvious water leakage? I'm starting to get scared. Mine is a 2007 Pro Guide. Even same decal-ling as yours. I haven't noticed any movement on the transom. Last year I took off my transducer boards just to check that they were sealed with silicone as I'm not the original owner. They were well sealed though. Re-installed.

[walleye.bill]

I believe it was various points of water entry. One being the top cap and two the scupper valves. I couldn't believe it but the scupper valves are just pressed together and had no silicone around them. They told me they seal nothing above the water line. My boat is now sealed Completely including the top cap

[Candianblueboy]

Very nice job and I really like the rubber on the top rail. Congrats

[Walleye2112]

Very nice job--I had that done a few years ago and there is no way I could ever pull a job off like that. Thanks for sharing.

[dutchboy]

That's a heck of a job, sure glad I didn't tackle it!

At least you have a very nice shop with lots of room to do the job.

Well done.

[walleye.bill]

Wasn't my shop but thank god for good friends and fishing buddies and yes it was a job for sure.

[pale ryder]

Looks like very good work !

Lund really should be doing this thou, as it is their fault the transoms are rotting.