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  #11  
Old 12-07-2016, 05:45 PM
REW REW is offline
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Lake,
The other thing that you can do for a temporary help is to get two 4x8 sheets of 2 inch foam and use tape to tape up the foam on the outside of the windows. Yes, it will cut off the light, but it will make the entire home much warmer due to the additional effective insulation that you are installing outside the window.


When the winter gets brutal around here, I do the same thing on the north wall of my multilevel home to improve its insulation.

Be safe
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  #12  
Old 12-07-2016, 09:57 PM
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Hanr3 Hanr3 is offline
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sounds like you need a new seal. They do wear out over time.
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  #13  
Old 12-08-2016, 11:24 AM
Lake Wisconsin Lake Wisconsin is offline
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thanks for all the reply's to date. Keep them coming!

REW - I think my wife would kill me if I placed foam between the door and screen. We live on the lake, in part for the view - had to LOL on that one.

French Doors - won't work due to room. This is in our dining area, and if the doors were to swing in, would be hitting the table. If they swing out, hitting the patio table.

3M plastic film - I use this door to let the dogs out, and get to my bird feeders. So the door would be used in winter. Unless you were thinking of plastic film on the screen door only - that might be an option.

Already replaced some of the seals - in the area I am getting wind.

ChuckD - I guess I am glad I am not the only one dealing with this. Yesterday I felt like the furnace never shut off. Just brutal.
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  #14  
Old 12-09-2016, 07:26 PM
REW REW is offline
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Lake,
There is one other option that actually works rather well.

Install a storm door on your opening on the outside of your current sliding glass door.

This will give you an extra air gap to really help when the cold north winds blow hard.

In the summer, you can just leave it open.
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  #15  
Old 12-10-2016, 06:27 AM
jamicra jamicra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REW View Post
Lake,
There is one other option that actually works rather well.

Install a storm door on your opening on the outside of your current sliding glass door.

.
Is this not exactly what the OP asked about in his OP?
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  #16  
Old 12-10-2016, 10:11 AM
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Bobby Winds Bobby Winds is offline
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Don't get a Anderson or as a matter fact any other sliding door then a Pella Slider.........

We had a Anderson at our cottage and when we didn't heat the cottage yet went to it in the middle of the winter we found small snow piles where the doors met and that was because the wind would open that seal enough for fine snow to enter the building. If we heated the building when gone we would have never know that.

On our house we added a Pella Sliding door years ago and then of course built a deck. The Pella door is made the opposite of other doors on the market, thus when the wind blows it actually tightens the seal where the door meet the non-sliding part of the door. This is because the sliding part is on the outside instead of the inside, which makes me wonder why other manufactures haven't picked up on this important fact.

This actually makes the screen door much better because it's now on the inside of the house and much more protected PLUS it spring loaded so all you do is walk out and the screen door slides closed behind you. A HUGE factor to keeping out flies and other bugs, especially when you have kids or guest over who are not use to closing a sliding screen door.

Bad part of a Pella door..............EXPENSIVE.........but worth it IMHO when thought about over the many years of service you will enjoy by this premium door. We ordered ours with the slim shades built into double pane glass so we don't need any drapes for privacy or to screen the sun. Our door is over 30 years old and works like the day it was installed.


Bob
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Last edited by Bobby Winds; 12-10-2016 at 10:13 AM.
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  #17  
Old 12-10-2016, 03:17 PM
bassin08 bassin08 is offline
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I too have the Anderson sliding patio doors. I have found that the biggest leak will be where the sliding door meets in the middle. I bought a roll of round foam about 1/2" in size. I put it in the crevice between the sliding door and the stationary door. Then I leave the door closed all winter. I have a very minimal air leak now and it was a very east remedy.
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  #18  
Old 12-11-2016, 07:27 AM
3 M plastic
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On my Anderson I just took my screen door off brought it in warmed it up good and put 3m heat plastic around it, that was 3 weeks ago it's still holding good even after some big blows. I can still slide it to.
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  #19  
Old 12-11-2016, 09:55 AM
reddog reddog is offline
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If it leaks with a west, northwest, or southwest, it leaks with a east, northeast, or southeast wind also, but its going the other way.... out and you wont feel it.

Make sure that you have the strike plate/latch adjusted so you have to push the door fully closed in order to lock it. This will compress the door further into the weather stripping both at the strike strike plate, and the connecting joint.

Like stated before, adding some open cell foam into the connecting channel and the strike jamb slot can slow down air movement also.

Closed cell foam gaskets will work also, but will require a longer break in period because they are closed cell.

Open cell gaskets breathe, and will readily compress.

The best of both worlds would be a urethane impregnated gasket like Denarcos Sure Seal. Its open cell urethane impregnated gasket that has memory because of the open cell, but becomes air tight at about 70% compression. It comes with a adhesive on one side.

In looking at my Anderson, a strip of 3/8 X 3/8 Sure Seal would fit nicely in between the primary rubber flap on the outside, and the secondary flap just in from that. In order to get a gasket with adhesive on on the interlocking side, you would probably have to remove the stop at the top of the operating panel and lift out the door for a few minutes while you strategically placed the gasket into position. Its just about 9 phillips head screws on mine. This would give you a positive seal on the sides. At that time, you could inspect the horizontal weatherstripping for wear or damage.

The horizontal seal at the top consists of a small brush with a vinyl flap in between. The vinyl flap is the important part. The brushes support the vinyl flap. You may be able to add a very small (but durable) gasket to the inside of the removable strip to force the door tighter into the flap.

If you want to try the Sure Seal, send me a pm. Ive got miles of it available in both the 3/8 x 3/8 and pretty sure Ive got 3/4 x 3/4 also.
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  #20  
Old 12-11-2016, 05:46 PM
REW REW is offline
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Just pick up an inexpensive 2nd sliding glass door and fir out the edges of your current door to allow for the install and you will be good to go.

Another option is to replace your sliding door screen door with another screen door, except with plexiglass installed in the screen frame rather than screen material.


https://www.larsondoors.com/storm-do...io-storm-doors
Here is a link for the Larson patio storm doors that fit on the outside of your current patio door.
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