'03 Merc 115 Saltwater 2 Stroke preventative maintenance

[jeroff]

Hi all.
Just a question/inquiry for those with experience with older 2 stroke Mercury outboards. I have a 115hp, 2003 Merc Saltwater model and am getting close to winterizing it for the year. The boat/motor was brand new when I bought it late in 2003, so I'm the original (only) owner. The boat/motor is in great shape, and has been always stored either in a garage or on a boat lift when not fishing / boating. Every winter we treat the fuel tank, fog the carbs, grease the zerks, change the lower unit gear oil, etc.
Knock on wood, nothing major has ever broken or gone bad on the Merc outboard. I've read a couple threads on here regarding the impellers in the lower unit going bad and am wondering if there is anything else I should be leery of, or maybe anything else that I can replace this winter as a preventative measure. I do plan on replacing the impeller already, so I figured I'd try to take care of all that maintenance at once.
I'd much rather spend even an extra couple hundred bucks when the boat is in the garage and replace some "used-but-not-broken" parts to keep the rig in tip-top shape, as oppose to having something wreck a weekend of fishing while in the middle of the lake.
Seems like some recommend cleaning / replacing the fuel filter as well.
Any other components that anyone here has found to be problematic on those older 2 stroke Merc's that I can replace / repair this winter?
Thanks in advance
-jeremy

[Binks61]

Check the timing belt for wear, cracks ect.

[REW]

Jeremy,
Follow the instructions in your owners manual.

[Flip Silverlake]

Originally Posted by Binks61

Check the timing belt for wear, cracks ect.

2 stroke motors don't have timing belts, or cam belts as it should be called.

[REW]

http://www.mercury-marine.eu/cache/D...cumentFull.pdf

Although this is for a 90hp, the maintenance would be similar.
Check pages 68 and on for suggestions.

Basically -
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Impeller - every three years
Check all fasteners on the engine to be sure that they are tight.
Grease all zerks that lubricate bearing surfaces
Lower unit gear oil - drain and replace

One thing that I do two or three times a year is to clean and lubricate the steering tube. I move the motor all of the way in one direction so that as much of the steering tube is exposed. Then, I spray down the tube with wd-40 and rotate the motor several times. Then, I use a paper towel to remove all of the dirty lube from the tube when extended. Repeat as often as necessary until the tube remains clean when rotated full out. Then, I spray it down with wd-40 and move the motor so the tube is fully retracted for long term storage. This prevents any rust build up on the steering mechanism.

When you check your fuel system, look for any signs of leakage at any fittings and also flex the fuel lines to be sure that none of them are getting hard.

Do the same thing for the fuel line that runs from the fuel tank to the engine. Also, check for leaks at the tank, squeeze bulb and engine. Change out anything that is defective. Use only Alcohol resistant fuel lines for replacement.

Also, always carry a spare fuse. As suggested in the manual, check the motor fuse for any sign of corrosion and if necessary clean and replace. I also like to put a big of grease on each end of the fuse to help minimize any moisture build up in that area.


Good luck

[jeroff]

Thanks for the clarification Flip, and thanks REW as always. I am printing the .pdf out as we speak, along with the tips you outline above. Many thanks.
Like I said above, I (we) typically do all the required winterizing maintenance, but didn't where else to look beyond the "usual" culprits.
I appreciate the insight, and will especially be sure to check the fuel filter this year, along with the impeller and steering tube. Last winter the steering tube seized up on me, so it was replaced this spring. With it being basically brand new now, I definitely want to make sure it lasts a lot longer this time around.
The cleaning tips you suggested are spot-on REW.