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Old 04-30-2017, 04:42 PM
Indiana Lou Indiana Lou is offline
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Location: Indiana, Pa, U.S.
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Default Another trailer light problem

Ever since I opened the back trailer light to replace a bulb I've had a problem. I tow with a GMC Sierra and it has two fuses to work the trailer. One fuse works the Turn signal/brake lights. The other fuse works the running/parking lights. I've had to replace the "running Light" fuse twice now. Is it possible that I didn't replace the bulb with the exact same number light. I think I used the typical #1157 that fits most car taillights. Also I changed the small side light in the back with a different bulb. Is it possible that could cause an overload therefore blowing the fuse. I need to check my owners manual for the Shorelander trailer to see if it list what actual bulb should be in there. I also realize I could skip everything and replace the entire light assembly with LED's. I didn't want to go to that expense if I didn't have to. Is it possible that the present light fixture is leaking water and shorting out? Thanks for any insight. It is getting frustrating when you leave the house and everything is working and then no lights. Thanks again. Indiana Lou
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:59 PM
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yarcraft91 yarcraft91 is offline
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Somewhere in the middle of..., Michigan.
Posts: 10,191

There are two common dual-filament taillight bulbs- 1157 and 2057. The 2057 has a lower wattage running light filament. You should look at the original(?) bulb in the other taillight and make sure you chose the right replacement light bulb.

I blew a couple taillight fuses when mice chewed up the trailer wiring.
Don't take life so seriously!

Last edited by yarcraft91; 04-30-2017 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:17 PM
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fishin10 fishin10 is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: central fl
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My brother bit the bullet last year and went LED's on his Shorelandr with the rectangular tail lights, while re wiring the trailer, he found numerous places on the old wiring that had exposed wire due to age and cracking. Spending money now on LED's will make your trailering better in the long term.
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Old 05-01-2017, 10:28 AM
REW REW is offline
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Don't wast time on your current lights.

Install a pair of LED trailer lights and move on.


If there is any age on the trailer - also install new wiring from the vehicle connection plug all of the way back to the tail/stop lights.

When you rewire, also run a dedicated ground wire - so that you have a positive ground and don't rely on the frame of the trailer for a ground connection.

Good luck




Or - the Blazer lights which I prefer to use:




Last edited by REW; 05-01-2017 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 05-01-2017, 04:54 PM
Stringbean Stringbean is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Sheboygan, WI
Posts: 112
Default trailer rewiring

As long as you're going to replace the wire harness in the trailer, stop over at Home Depot and get some spiral wrap for the new wiring. It does wonders in absorbing the vibration and abrasion when traveling down the road. Remember, every time you launch the boat, the trailer frame is getting wet and starts to rust on the inside. This rust will abrade anything including the insulation on the new wire harness. Here is a link to what I'm talking about. To cover the entire harness you may need 6-8 packs. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-3-1-2-ft-Spiral-Wrap-Clear-FSP-CLEARTC/205588211

Last edited by Stringbean; 05-01-2017 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 05-02-2017, 12:00 PM
REW REW is offline
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One thing that I like to do when rewiring a trailer is to get some 1/2 or 3/4 inch pvc pipe.

Thread the pipe through the frame and then pull the wire through the pipe.

The pipe protects the wiring from any chafing.

Also, if you need to run the wire on the outside of the frame, you can use pop rivets to rivet nylon tie wraps to the side of the frame to support the pipe that is holding the wiring.

This works exceptionally well on exposed wiring commonly found on snow mobile trailers.

Good luck
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