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  #11  
Old 05-18-2017, 04:06 AM
brigeton brigeton is online now
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Any crankbait can be used casting but be aware the depths achieved will not be as deep as stated for trolling because you don't have as much line out.
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  #12  
Old 05-18-2017, 10:39 AM
MT523 MT523 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brigeton View Post
Any crankbait can be used casting but be aware the depths achieved will not be as deep as stated for trolling because you don't have as much line out.
Ok that makes sense. Thank you.
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  #13  
Old 05-18-2017, 04:12 PM
WallyWorld11 WallyWorld11 is offline
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Don't be afraid to hit bottom either. I've caught many walleye pounding cranks off bottom and off of rocks. With regular Shad Raps, not glass or Rs's, you can reel down to bottom if in shallow enough water and let it tap bottom a few times then I like to stop, give it a three count and let it float up a bit then repeat.
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  #14  
Old 05-18-2017, 09:44 PM
MT523 MT523 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WallyWorld11 View Post
Don't be afraid to hit bottom either. I've caught many walleye pounding cranks off bottom and off of rocks. With regular Shad Raps, not glass or Rs's, you can reel down to bottom if in shallow enough water and let it tap bottom a few times then I like to stop, give it a three count and let it float up a bit then repeat.
Man that sounds like a great idea/technique. I will definitely try this. I think I've got a good selection in the online shopping cart.
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  #15  
Old 05-20-2017, 07:51 AM
Kartman35 Kartman35 is offline
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Default He did say 'Reservoir'

Many reservoirs (or at least certain sections of them) have a lot of submerged timber. If the ground is rocky then yeah...don't be afraid to hit bottom. But if you're fishing in reservoirs with submerged timber you should be afraid...very afraid of running along the bottom.

Bring a plug knocker
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  #16  
Old 05-20-2017, 09:05 AM
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Jfraze10 Jfraze10 is offline
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I'd rather donate a couple baits and catch fish all night/morning then play it safe and catch 0 or 1 just to save a couple lures. I get cranks add up $$ but so does every other part of fishing.
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  #17  
Old 05-20-2017, 10:41 PM
WillowAce WillowAce is offline
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Casting cranks is a subject that takes years to learn. Rod wise for light cranks I use a 7' ML Moderate action spinning rod, think Original Floating Rapala and Shad Rap. If you try to cast these with a bait caster you are in for a long day. Heavier cranks I go to a 7' M Moderate baitcaster. Stay away from fast and X fast rods as they tend to be too sensitive and quick leading to a lot of baits pulled out of mouths.

There is an art to pulling cranks and the hardest part to learn is depth control. Forget the depth listed on the lure as you will only see that depth held if trolling. On a cast and retrieve the bait will only hit max depth for a short period of retrieve. Think of a wide U in the water, it takes so much of the retrieve to get it down to depth and then as you reel in it starts coming back up to the rod tip. If fish are suspended I am not sure anything beats the original floating rapalas in size 7 or 9 and I never leave home without these in gold, blue and chartreuse/silver. Use various size split shot to control depth. If fish are tight to the bottom use divers and long casts. Example, if you are targeting a rock bar in 10 FOW you want to cast well past it to get depth before the bait is there. In this case if you are digging rocks on the retrieve you aren't fishing it properly so play with the cast and depth of the crank bait until you are tapping rocks. Then there is speed and stopping and ripping so don't be afraid to play with retrieve until you find one that works. Fish a drift retrieving slow and steady if no luck go back and speed it up, if no luck go back and and try a erratic retrieve start fast stop it twitch it and stop it and my favorite for tight fish, pump it into the bottom stop and let it rise a bit and pump it right back into the bottom. It really is a feel thing that comes from doing it. Color is the easiest part, the clearer the water the more natural the color and less water you have to move. Dark or stained water brighter color and move more water. Rule of thumb, look at your prop, if you see it clearly clear water if it looks dingy stained water, if you can't see it dirty. The clearer the water the more natural the bait should be; think stick bait with tight action, small narrow bill, and color matching natural forage, dirty water go bright and a wide wobbling action, wide bill, as moving water, the wobble, becomes as much of an attractant if not more of an attractant as color.
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  #18  
Old 05-21-2017, 07:14 AM
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martinbns martinbns is offline
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Yesterday, we found ourselves getting shutout on the Canadian part of LOTW on opening day.

Couldn't find fish anywhere we normally do, tried jigs with minnows, leeches and worms and cast some crank baits as well. It was crazy windy, cool (10*C) hard to troll with the TM.

I found myself tieing and retieing for both my wife and I. I am thinking of setting up a nice M casting rig, I have a MH baitcaster, not sure whether I will go that route or spinning.

My question on the rig you use for casting cranks do you guys use a snap swivel? What if any effect does using a small one have on the action of the crank?
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  #19  
Old 05-21-2017, 08:14 AM
WillowAce WillowAce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martinbns View Post
Yesterday, we found ourselves getting shutout on the Canadian part of LOTW on opening day.

Couldn't find fish anywhere we normally do, tried jigs with minnows, leeches and worms and cast some crank baits as well. It was crazy windy, cool (10*C) hard to troll with the TM.

I found myself tieing and retieing for both my wife and I. I am thinking of setting up a nice M casting rig, I have a MH baitcaster, not sure whether I will go that route or spinning.

My question on the rig you use for casting cranks do you guys use a snap swivel? What if any effect does using a small one have on the action of the crank?
I tend not to use snap swivels when the water is very clear, but when the water is stained or dirty I will go to them. When I have a lot of snakes hitting I will go to a short light leader just to save my baits.

If the crankbait has a split ring on it there is no effect on action. If there is not a split ring it actually helps the action of the bait. With-that-said, I always use a Rapala knot on cranks without a split ring to help with the action of the bait.
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  #20  
Old 05-24-2017, 07:57 AM
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Sportdog Sportdog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT523 View Post
Sounds good I'll pick up a variety of lures to test out, including shad raps. Thanks for the tips, I know they will come in handy.
I don't know your body of water you fish but here's some food for thought.

Many of the lakes, in fact, most of them that I fish, walleyes are weed oriented and I do best casting your typical bass fat body cranks.

I personally like to use a smooth, limp, mono (Trilene XL) typically 8#, loaded on a wider spooled spinning reel with a 7' controlled flex action rod.

Think "edges". Deep weed lines, tops of weed flats, inside pockets, bottom transitions.

You're going to lose some cranks! Find what works and buy when they are sale offered.

Best of luck to you!
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