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  #21  
Old 05-16-2017, 08:20 PM
2catch1 2catch1 is offline
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I'd personally get rid of it....Trade it in or sell it cheap. Great lakes are no joke. Or get an auto bilge pump and next fall tear it apart yourself, fill it with water and find the leaks. There are so many epoxies on the market that it shouldn't be hard to fix....getting there is the hard part.....btw my 2006 Alumacraft that was used A LOT on lake Michigan was always bone dry.
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  #22  
Old 05-17-2017, 12:49 AM
REW REW is online now
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Cabin6,
You should turn the boat over to your insurance company and have them total it out.

Apparently, for what ever reason, the force of the water etc. beating on the boat has caused significant damage to the integrity of the hull.

Two or three attempts at fixing the issue has not resulted in a satisfactory fix. So, it seems that the next best thing to do, is to total the hull and put your gear, motor and depthfinders on a different hull (not necessarily new) that doesn't leak.

Big water and the great lakes is /are not the place that you want to take a boat that knowingly takes on water.

The captain of such a boat could be found guilty if folks were injured or worst when a leaking boat is knowingly put in the water.

Good luck
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  #23  
Old 05-18-2017, 10:09 AM
bobk bobk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REW View Post
Cabin6,
You should turn the boat over to your insurance company and have them total it out.

Apparently, for what ever reason, the force of the water etc. beating on the boat has caused significant damage to the integrity of the hull.

Two or three attempts at fixing the issue has not resulted in a satisfactory fix. So, it seems that the next best thing to do, is to total the hull and put your gear, motor and depthfinders on a different hull (not necessarily new) that doesn't leak.

Big water and the great lakes is /are not the place that you want to take a boat that knowingly takes on water.

The captain of such a boat could be found guilty if folks were injured or worst when a leaking boat is knowingly put in the water.

Good luck
That's just plain silly.
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  #24  
Old 05-18-2017, 10:17 AM
REW REW is online now
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BobK,
It is not silly if the insurance company awards $15K to the owner of the boat.
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  #25  
Old 05-18-2017, 11:28 AM
lakedog lakedog is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabin6 View Post
2008 Tyee 1850, dealer fixed, then factory fixed (2 yr ago) , rivets fixed but now leaking worse than ever along keel. Did I buy a lemon or do all boats leak?
This is one of those questions we all ask despite knowing the answer, but I don't blame you. Most don't and the ones that do should be repairable.

What kind of shape is the keel in? Is there any possibility the boat may have stricken something at one point? It would probably take a pretty hard strike to do enough damage to cause problems, but it's just a thought.
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  #26  
Old 05-18-2017, 07:20 PM
cabin6 cabin6 is offline
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Bottom looks new. No dents, dings, scrapes. Not even scratches in paint. This boat has never been beached. Have never hit anything except occasional small debris. Always launched at public ramps or marinas, has never been in the water overnight. This boat gets in the water 10-15 times per year usually on Lake Erie and seldom in seas greater than 1-3 ft. If it gets rough, you have to go slow and quarter. I'm suspicious about the location of the batteries under the beam starboard and port, but they can't be relocated. I'd really like to get it fixed so it's usable or in condition to trade or sell. Thanks to the input from those on this board I intend to pursue that. I plan to remove floor panel and rod storage, put it in a local lake and observe where the water is coming from. I sincerely thank you guys for your opinions.
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  #27  
Old 05-18-2017, 11:00 PM
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T Mac T Mac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabin6 View Post
Bottom looks new. No dents, dings, scrapes. Not even scratches in paint. This boat has never been beached. Have never hit anything except occasional small debris. Always launched at public ramps or marinas, has never been in the water overnight. This boat gets in the water 10-15 times per year usually on Lake Erie and seldom in seas greater than 1-3 ft. If it gets rough, you have to go slow and quarter. I'm suspicious about the location of the batteries under the beam starboard and port, but they can't be relocated. I'd really like to get it fixed so it's usable or in condition to trade or sell. Thanks to the input from those on this board I intend to pursue that. I plan to remove floor panel and rod storage, put it in a local lake and observe where the water is coming from. I sincerely thank you guys for your opinions.
That only leaves the trailer as the potential culprit.
If you could be so kind, could you describe the trailer..
Brand?... roller? ...bunk?...weight rating..?

I have seen trailers that did not fit...or were not set up correctly cause hull issues.
If the leak is the weld (which is covered by the keel extrusion).. that could mean the boat is not properly
supported on the trailer.

Has anybody looked at that?
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  #28  
Old 05-18-2017, 11:49 PM
Eye4 Eye4 is offline
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Are you sure you don't have a plumbing leak?
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  #29  
Old 05-19-2017, 07:51 AM
cabin6 cabin6 is offline
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Had the marina check for plumbing leaks, found no issues. Not sure how much time they spent on this so I filled the live wells, removed a floor panel and visually checked the plumbing, found no leaks. Then I filled the boat with water and noticed quite a bit of water leaking from the keel area. More than a minor drip. The trailer is a Shorelander single axle bunk and came with the boat. The boat is well cradled and seems very well supported on the trailer.
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  #30  
Old 05-19-2017, 08:20 AM
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fishin10 fishin10 is offline
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Your leak test showed substantial l water leaking at the keel area...your options...use Gluvit or 3M5200 slow cure. When I found leaks during my rebuild, I used 3M5200 slow cure and a heat gun. Slow cure means that it flows, I warmed the area at the leak with the heat gun to expand the metal, then applied the 5200 at the leak location at it flowed into the leak area(seam)....no leaks 2 years later. Gluvit can be applied with a brush at the leak area inside the hull. Many at Iboats use this when fixing rivet and seam leaks during rebuilds.
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