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  #1  
Old 05-17-2017, 04:48 AM
msobie64 msobie64 is offline
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Default 1800 Fisherman Transom Question

Hey guys, I told myself I'd check my transom out this year to see if its need of replacement (still feels rock solid when I try to flex it by rocking on a tilted motor good). I popped the topcap off and found the two states below. The starboard side looks like its got some wet spots. I tried poking through these with a flat head screwdriver and still feels hard but def has some moisture under there. The port side looks good to me. Should I throw the top cap back, seal it up with 4200 and move on or should I do something about it now? I did find the drain on the top of the gunwales rear caps was clogged (this is a terrible lund design to have the top of the gunwales drain into the transom).

Thoughts are always appreciated.

Thx,
Mike
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  #2  
Old 05-17-2017, 05:02 AM
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Shellback Shellback is offline
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I'd try and dry it out the best I could before sealing it up.
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  #3  
Old 05-17-2017, 07:38 AM
DW DW is offline
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If it feels strong it probably is strong so I would focus efforts on drying it out. The problem is you don't have enough time to dry it thoroughly as we enter the prime boating season. So, I would seal it with silicon which is easy to remove and perhaps remove it temporarily several times mid season for drying perhaps applying some heat. The objective is to make a major effort next winter by taking the cap off, opening the access hatch and storing your boat in heated space all winter, then permenantly sealing the cap with 4200. I think you can dry it thoroughly over the winter in heated space. Also, have you checked the condition of the wood core on the bottom side? This may be exposed just above the bilge underneath the splash well. If you haven't already you need to keep your bilge bone dry.
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Old 05-17-2017, 08:14 AM
msobie64 msobie64 is offline
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Thanks for the replies. I"ll check the bottom of the transom from the access hatch to see what I might be dealing with. The boat is kept on a trailer all year (so bilge dries out quickly and is normally dry within a few days of use - if it gets water in it at all). I'll use some marine silicone for now and work on a plan to get it dried out over the winter (its stored in a garage all winter but its not heated, I'll try to figure something out). Any other drying recommendations are welcome.
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Old 05-17-2017, 11:01 AM
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TomP. TomP. is offline
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Before I would seal it up I would go to Menards or online they make a product that takes wet would and turns it rock hard for the luv of me I cannot remember the name of it. I used it on our barn window sills about 20 years ago cause they were soft and rotting hard as a rock to this day. Actually works best with damp wood.
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Old 05-17-2017, 11:16 AM
msobie64 msobie64 is offline
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I know they make numerous wood hardeners for rotting wood (minwax, bondo, JBweld) just didn't know if that was a good idea.
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  #7  
Old 05-17-2017, 07:52 PM
Minn guest
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Pull your motor bolts and check if the water is entering there, if not reseal them, mine looked similar to yours but it was rotted out around the bolts.
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  #8  
Old 05-17-2017, 08:17 PM
lakedog lakedog is offline
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When I discovered my transom's dark secret, also a Fisherman 1800, I used a few long screwdrivers to create a gap between the transom wood and aluminum sheet. I then ran a fan for days on end in a futile attempt to dry the transom out before resolving myself to accept that it would never fully dry.

My transom wood was pretty solid along the length of the beam and simply had a wet slimy feel. At the left hand corner; however, (in the vicinity of the scupper) the wood was soft enough that I could drive a coat hanger about 6" into it. Working the material with a screw driver caused it to disintegrate further.

My advice is to be honest with yourself. Are you sealing it to ignore a serious problem or is it really "not that bad." If the latter is the case then you should be able to dry it out with a fan before sealing the cap on. If it "is bad" then sealing it is only going to make the problem worse over time because it will act to trap moisture.

Replacing a transom is expensive; however, it's a heck of a lot less money to replace the wood itself than it will be to replace the metal when it eventually pits out due to corrosion from the chemicals leached out of the wood.

If you do seal the cap, as has been stated you will probably want to address the motor mounting bolts and press fit scuppers as well. They are also weak points in the design. The latter more than the former.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:57 PM
msobie64 msobie64 is offline
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Forgive my ignorance but what are the press fit scuppers?
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  #10  
Old 05-18-2017, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msobie64 View Post
Forgive my ignorance but what are the press fit scuppers?
They are the drain holes in the transom that allow water from the splash well to drain back into the lake. 2 of them, one on either side of the motor. Designed to only drain one way out. Since they are drilled through the transom, they sometimes leak. When I replaced my transom, they had let water in due to the sealant drying out. Mine were 2 piece plastic and pushed together on either side of the transom. My boat is a 99 ProV 1800 SE.

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