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  #11  
Old 02-01-2013, 04:31 AM
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trollingforwalleye trollingforwalleye is offline
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I said it before and I'll say it again....The dive curve should be on the box of every lure....Flicker shads have them...why not the rest...at least we would have a starting point...Crooks
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  #12  
Old 02-01-2013, 09:04 AM
lowtech lowtech is offline
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ImpactFishing -

As previously mentioned, the likelyhood of you receiving the dive curves on this forum are slim/none. On a more positive note - the HJ/TD lure curves are available as a set in the sticker packs, so you'll have all of them. The sticker packs run about 25.00 from Fleetfarm. They divided Rapala into the HJ/TD's, Shadraps, and Minnowraps.

Any time you change line you should check for calibration on the counter, IMO.
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  #13  
Old 02-01-2013, 09:41 AM
ImpactFishing ImpactFishing is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trollingforwalleye View Post
I said it before and I'll say it again....The dive curve should be on the box of every lure....Flicker shads have them...why not the rest...at least we would have a starting point...Crooks


I agree, I commend berkley for having some common sense.
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  #14  
Old 02-01-2013, 09:43 AM
ImpactFishing ImpactFishing is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowtech View Post
ImpactFishing -

As previously mentioned, the likelyhood of you receiving the dive curves on this forum are slim/none. On a more positive note - the HJ/TD lure curves are available as a set in the sticker packs, so you'll have all of them. The sticker packs run about 25.00 from Fleetfarm. They divided Rapala into the HJ/TD's, Shadraps, and Minnowraps.

Any time you change line you should check for calibration on the counter, IMO.


Should I check for calibration after repeatedly cutting off tag end line from tying knots?
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  #15  
Old 02-01-2013, 10:11 AM
lowtech lowtech is offline
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Originally Posted by ImpactFishing View Post
Should I check for calibration after repeatedly cutting off tag end line from tying knots?
Some might, I think that's a little excessive - I calibrated mine with a full spool and usually at the start of the season, but I don't direct tie. I don't know how much you're removing when you tie on / cut tags, but as long as you remain in the ballpark of a full spool you should be okay. If you're trimming off 50-60yrds, I'd re-cal - IMO.
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  #16  
Old 02-01-2013, 02:32 PM
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I have 16 linecounter rigs. never calibrated a single one in twenty years. I put 330 yards of line on them (filled to within an eighth of an inch of the spool top). Every couple of trips, I pull off twenty feet of line off each of them. I troll the Great lakes, so snags aren't an issue. I wouldn;t worry about the loss of six or eight inches when re-tying a swivel or snap.
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  #17  
Old 02-01-2013, 05:20 PM
Steeleyes Steeleyes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trollingforwalleye View Post
I said it before and I'll say it again....The dive curve should be on the box of every lure....Flicker shads have them...why not the rest...at least we would have a starting point...Crooks
nothings stopping those manufacturers from going and buying the dive curves from Precision Angling like the makers of flicker shads did.
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  #18  
Old 02-01-2013, 05:40 PM
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trollingforwalleye trollingforwalleye is offline
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Originally Posted by Steeleyes View Post
nothings stopping those manufacturers from going and buying the dive curves from Precision Angling like the makers of flicker shads did.
come on....They build them and test their own...ever buy a coffee pot and have to pay seperate for a user guide? Really?
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