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#1
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i like the look much better, but are there any disadvantages to getting one? is it just cosmetic?
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2007 Ranger Reata 1850VS w/ Yamaha 150HP 4 Stroke, Mercury 15hp Kicker, MinnKota Terrova...... ![]() |
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#2
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Beside being expensive, to me, there isn't much Disadvantages to have the SS. People I know that use the SS always remind me that if; ""If you ran a SS and you hit something, your LU will be gone.....but if its a Alum, things wouldn't be as BAD"" For my case, I don't agree with that because I either run 500rpm or 5900rpm, so when I hit something at 5900RPM, my LU will be gone with or without SS Prop. Cheap 2 cents |
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#3
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More speed would be the first advantage. Staying hooked up while cornering would be another. While it is ok to assume that hitting an obstacle at WOT will be bad with any prop, the advantage comes a slow speeds. Hit a rock or two at low speeds with a SS prop, no harm, but it'll dent, ding and perhaps remove some of your aluminum prop. there may also be a psychological advantage: I may be unconsciously more careful with a $600.00 prop than with a $200.00 prop.
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Cell phone zombies...I see them all the time now Boat Nut |
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#4
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![]() Back on topic, I've collected a variety of props, from plastic ComProps to a SS Vengeance. I'll run the ComProp or alum in what I know to be stump and boulder infested waters, and save the SS for the go-fast days. I've been keeping my eye on Ebay and Craiglist for bargains, and have been buying new props for less than the repair costs. Still kicking myself for not getting a SS Quicksilver than sold for $26, somehow work keeps getting in the way! HRG
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"I've got a car with a trailer hitch, and a pocket full of money. Do you want to sell that boat today, or not?" My Mentor, Bill Michalek, circa 1975 |
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#5
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This spring I got a new boat and for performance reasons it needed re-propped. I gave "propman" from Brainerd Prop a call and he set me up. I looked at it like this...I could get a four blade aluminium for just over $100 or a similar stainless for over $300. So sure, stainless is more durable, but I could completley trash two aluminum props and be on my third and still be money ahead. An important note...I'm running a 90 hp tiller and speed is not important to me...so the aluminum fits my needs (and budget)perfectly.
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#6
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I've heard of painted stainless props but don't know about the pros or cons of them. I'm assuming they'll be cheaper than the "shiny" SS, but are they worth the extra money over an aluminum ?
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#7
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A SS prop is more efficient in the water. The prop guys can give the science behind it, but I know this to be true. I have had both on other boats. With my tiller, the aluminum had far less torque on my arm and I used that one on rougher days, or days when I had a full load. But most of the time I ran the SS. Never had issues with my LU because of hitting things, and I've kissed the bottom a few times. I have busted up some aluminum one's on my old boat though.
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#8
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ok so question then...how do i know if a prop will fit my 3.0 liter mercruiser with a 2000 alpha one drive unit coming out of the back? it's an I/O mercruiser motor 4 cyl. 3.0 liter. and should i (if i change) stick with 3 blade or go with 4 blade? what's the difference between the 2? TIA
__________________
2007 Ranger Reata 1850VS w/ Yamaha 150HP 4 Stroke, Mercury 15hp Kicker, MinnKota Terrova...... ![]() |
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#9
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#10
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JinxCanada
A stainless prop on an I/O is different then an outboard and the reason is you can adjust the motor height on an outboard but not on an I/O. I would recommend doing a demo if you have a dealer that has that program. I would also call the Propman or Power-Tech because they will know how to prop that boat properly . |
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