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#1
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I'm new here and new to trolling. Anyways, I spend most of my time trolling since I'm still learning and I'm also learning the lakes at the same time. Trolling allows me to cover the lake and learn it's shape.
I've been picking up a fish here and there, but I'd really like to take home some limits. I've been trying to get my cranks to run very close to the bottom and digging in at times. Is that too deep or should I run them a few feet off the bottom? |
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#2
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As a general rule, you're doing it correctly.
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#3
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How big is this lake?
How deep is the deepest area? What kind of shape is it? Round like Mille Lacs? Or, more long and narrow like a reservoir? Mostly sand bottom? Do you have electronics on the boat for locating suspended fish over deep water? Are there any big patches of weeds with a couple feet of water over them? Rip-rap shore line? Deep drop offs from a shallow area? Do you use crawler harnesses at all or only cranks? More info please....what structure does it feature the most? The more you give the WC members, the more they can help you. oh yeah....here's another one....Are you using planer boards or long lining your baits? Juls
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Juls NPAA#89 Find me in Walleye Central's Business Directory HEREhttp://www.walleyecentral.com/pros/?proID=8 2013 Ranger 621 300 ETEC 15 ETEC Kicker 101 Terrova w/iPilot LINK Humminbird 1198 SI/DI Dash & Bow |
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#4
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Depends on the lake- I fish Saginaw Bay, Lake Huron. We run the cranks 1'-2' above the fish we are marking on the graph. If we aren't marking fish, we run at least one line very shallow, 6' or less, in case they are feeding at the surface.
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#5
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You first have to find the depth. To find the depth, you need to concentrate on water temp. The sallower you run cranks - more near mid day - The more line you need out and the more you have to run them into something/shade to make them look confused - with a pause there after, before starting up again. Also - the best you can hope for at this time is a reaction bite - that means smaller fish. Have fun, but it's not for me.
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#6
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Well, I live in Colorado so all of the "lakes" that I fish are really reservoirs. The one that I've been spending my time at is John Martin Reservoir.
All of the reservoir water in Colorado is either water storage for drinking, etc, or irrigation. John Martin is in the south east plains of Colorado and I believe is used for both. It was made with a dam on the Arkansas. The lake is deepest by the dam and last I checked was about 45 ft deep there (east end). It seems to gradually slope out to 0 or so on the west end. The west end has large areas with very little change in the bottom. As you get further west, there are submerged trees in the shallows that go from about 7 ft of water to probably 0. I haven't gone any further west than about 7 ft of water. Last week, my two boys and I managed to pick up 4 eyes, 1 white bass, and 1 crappie. It took us 6+ hours to catch these fish. All fish were caught in roughly 11 ft of water. Three of the eyes were caught on RR deep little ripper in flame. The other eye was caught on a Storm soft shad. The crappie and white bass were caught up higher in the water column on a Bomber Fat free fry in Bill Dance's Firetiger. Water temp was right at 70. I trolled with the Merc 50 at idle which is right at 2.1 or so depending on the wind. I'm thinking that there must be fish back in those trees in shallow water but I'm not sure of the best technique to get at them that shallow. I don't have planer boards at this time. I do have a trolling motor. I've also only been running two lines since I don't have planer boards yet and I'd like to keep the lines out of the prop. I'm sure you guys have plenty of ideas for this place. |
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#7
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Quote:
Reservoir. Don't know about the bottom. I have electronics, but don't know how to read the bottom composition. I did find some underwater reeds last weekend (cranks getting fouled) and that's where most of the fish came from. The shores are very steep. Colorado reservoirs are basically rock canyons that have been filled with water. At this point, I've only pulled cranks. I have a few spinner rigs and lindy rigs but haven't put them to use yet. |
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#8
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I think, that in general, you are on the right track. Fishing big water and typical lakes really requires different mindsets.
When I use crankbaits (on typical Minnesota lakes), I usually do it when I believe the fish will be shallow. Where I am, that means fishing in the evening, or on cloudy/dreary days in the cabbage. Fish a lure that will get your bait just above the bottom or the weeds. You should have an assortment of shallow and deep running lures in different sizes. If you get a fish or two in a certain area, run past it a few times. When fishing bigger water, or fishing suspended fish, there are several other techniques to try that require a bit more finesse and accuracy with the lure. Typically fisherman chasing those fish will rely on their electronics to give them an idea of the fish depth, then use any of a variety of methods to get the bait down to that depth (downriggers or lead core are a couple of examples). Fishing cranks is just like every other technique. It takes some experimentation and experience to learn what to do, and when and where you can do it. But I will tell you in no uncertain terms that it can be very effective, and will catch walleyes of all sizes. --- Just saw your follow-up: You definitely want to get to where the submerged trees are (assuming you can safely navigate). We pull raps in 4 feet of water without any sort of planer boards. Just let out plenty of line to keep the lure back away from the motor noise.
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WalleyeGuy13 Last edited by walleyeguy13; 06-10-2010 at 12:18 PM. |
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#9
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My cabin is on a Michigan reservoir that sounds similar to yours in Colorado- similar depths, lots of submerged trees. Water is fairly clear, stained brown.
We have the added complication of zebra mussels, which coat the submerged trees and will cut off monofilament line like a knife. I use 30 lb PowerPro line to prevent the mussel cut-offs. The July-August-September issue of Walleye-Insider (I miss it ) has a nice article "Treetop Trolling" by Dennis Foster with several good tips for pulling fish out of submerged timber.I troll baits that dive down to the very tops of the submerged trees- if I don't bump a tree from time to time, I let out more line. Cranks like Hot-n-Tots, Deep Thunderstick Jrs., any diving lure that runs with the lip well below the rest of the body will usually bounce off the trees rather than snagging. Removing the front treble hook helps with some baits. When snags do happen, I position the boat directly over the snag, wrap the PowerPro around a piece of scrap 2x2 lumber and pull. The snag or the hook usually gives up before the line does. Electric trolling motor for silence, one rod/person, no planer boards. It has produced some really nice fish for me. |
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#10
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It sounds like you are targeting "your" lake which is a good place to learn with repetition and not be faced with a lot of variables.
You will undoubtedly get lots of info here which could put you into overload while you are learning. Listen well. I suggest you develop a list from this advice and focus on a tactic or two each time you go out. Learn it well and add it to your bag of tricks. Keep track of all the particulars for every fish you catch, anylize what the conditions and circumstances were for each one. Soon a pattern will develop and you will find a few presentations that you have some level of confidence in for a starting point each time you go out. This also will help you pattern the walleye population on "your lake" for future reference. Also spend some time learning what your electronics are telling you. If need be hire a guide for 1/2 day to show and teach you how to understand them ... money well spent in my opinion. My 2 cents ... Morton |
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