Lund IPS & IPS2 Dead Rise . . .

[NMG]

Hi everyone,

Do you know if the IPS and IPS2 have the same dead rise? Also, does the dead rise vary by model or do they all have the same degree entry? I can't seem to find anywhere what the dead rise is for the various models. Any ideas what it would be at the transom and the bow for a boat like the 1675 Pro Guide?

[3M TA3]

If you had this information, what will you do with it? How valuable is it in your boat purchase decision? About 20+ degrees give or take a little is typical for a Deep V boat. I wouldn't know how one would determine if one angle is better than another unless you're a boat designer. As a consumer, I don't know that I need to know. Help me understand your reasons for asking. This could be an interesting topic of discussion, I think.

[walley wana be]

The 'deeper' the "V", the better the ride in rougher waters!

[Dave C]

One reason may be that more boat brands are including the degree of deadrise in their specs for each model. And as the last poster mentioned, it is related to (but not the only variable) smoothness of ride. Inquiring minds what to know.

[T Mac]

Originally Posted by NMG

Hi everyone,

Do you know if the IPS and IPS2 have the same dead rise? Also, does the dead rise vary by model or do they all have the same degree entry? I can't seem to find anywhere what the dead rise is for the various models. Any ideas what it would be at the transom and the bow for a boat like the 1675 Pro Guide?

It does vary on different models and years.. But if you were to compare an older (same size) ProV with IPS and the same boat next year w/ IPS2 for example, ...in this particular case, they'd be the same hull except for the strakes.

You could drop an email to Lund and the engineering department has that information.

[T Mac]

Originally Posted by walley wana be

The 'deeper' the "V", the better the ride in rougher waters!

True with some explanation...
The deeper the V in the rear portion of the boat, the more gas to keep the boat on plane.
And the more unstable at rest (it'll lean very easily).
But if the deep V is in the front ...and there is less V in the back...and reverse chines are present, now you have the modern style hull, seen on the more popular big water fishing boats.

[NMG]

Hi everyone,

Yes, I am curious about it just to get an idea of how the various hulls will handle rougher water. I know that hull design, length, weight and all sorts of other factors will impact it, but so would the amount of dead rise. It's just one more piece of information that I think would be useful to know.

Just for some context, I've had boats in the past that had a constant 12 degree dead rise and found that while they were very stable at rest, they did tend to pound a little bit once the waves picked up. Like T-Mac said, many models will have a variable dead rise with a much sharper bow entry and these will cut the waves much better even if the dead rise at the transom is less. From looking at some of the various pics online, it looks like the IPS and IPS2 hulls don't have a great amount of dead rise at the transom (not much more than my old 12 degree hulls), but that they do have a sharper bow entry. It would be interesting to get the specs as I suspect it would help me understand how the hulls may perform in comparison to previous boats I have owned.

This post isn't meant as a criticism of Lund or anything like that. I just notice that more and more makers are listing the dead rise on their website. Crestliner for example, shows that their new Pro Tiller 1650 has a 12 degree dead rise, whereas the Pro Tiller 1750 has a 17 degree dead rise. To me, this would suggest that the 1750 would handle rough water much better, not even factoring in the extra length and width. I'd be curious how this hull would compare to the 1675 Pro Guide, since they seem to be in direct competition with each other.

I'd also be curious to see how models within Lund's own lineup even compare. The 1600 Alaskan and the 1625 Rebel for example. They both have the same IPS hull, but do they share the same dead rise? Again, it's just more to get an idea of hull characteristics.

T-Mac, I like your suggestion of contacting Lund and I think I'll do that. Like I said, this isn't meant as a critique, I'm just trying to understand how the hulls vary from model to model and from Lund to their competitors. Many of the hull design elements like reverse chines seem pretty common these days, so the more info one has, the better they can understand the benefits of one design over another.

Thanks for all of the feedback everyone!

[KSauers]

Looking at these 2 it appears the rebel has more deadrise. It looks like it had a deeper v to me. Would it then cut waves better? It's also narrower. Where would the new Impact fit in? How much does beam effect rough water ride?

[Andre (wallyandre)]

Not a official source:
20.5 deg: Smokecraft 172 Pro Angler
20 deg: Smokecraft 182 Pro Mag
20 deg: Starcraft 186 Superfisherman (19)
20 deg: Tracker Targa V18 Combo 2011 (20)
19 deg: Tracker Pro-Guide V-175 (19)
19 deg: Starcraft 2050 STX Pro-Serie (19)
19 deg: Ranger Reata 1850 RS
18 deg: Legend 19 Xcaliber
17 deg: Princecraft 185 Super-Pro
16.5 deg: Legend 18 Xtreme
16 deg: Princecraft 179 Pro Serie
16 deg: Princecraft 182 Sport Serie
14.5 deg: Crestliner 1850 Sportfish (17)
14 deg: Princecraft 186 Platinum SE
14 deg: Microcraft 1763 Aggressor
14 deg: Lund Rebel 1825
13.5 deg: Lund Impact 1775 SS
13 deg: Crestliner 1800 SuperHank (17)
12 deg: G3 Angler V175FS (13)
12 deg: G3 Angler V172F (13)
11 deg: Microcraft 1977 Aggressor EXP

[3M TA3]

Word of mouth about boat performance carries far more weight with me than some number that means nothing to me. Never concerned myself with statistics like that although I must say if I wanted an 18 foot boat with a 8 foot beam, well then I would narrow down my choices using that info. I honestly can't say that I would everr consider Dead Rise in my boat buying decision.