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  #1  
Old 04-17-2011, 10:10 PM
nebeyes nebeyes is offline
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Default Loose Rivets

A friend of mine has an 02 lund that has some loose rivets,and are leaking water, just wondering the best way to fix the problem,thanks
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  #2  
Old 04-17-2011, 10:40 PM
lund115 lund115 is offline
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Depends how loose, and did the boat hit anything?
Did your friend call Lund to see if they'd fix it??
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  #3  
Old 04-17-2011, 10:44 PM
nebeyes nebeyes is offline
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didnt hit anything,falling out
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  #4  
Old 04-17-2011, 11:39 PM
REW REW is offline
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Neb,
Depending on how loose the rivet is, there are two ways to fix the rivet correctly.

1. If it is not too loose and can be tightened, put a bucking tool on the back of the rivet and put a rivet gun on the outside of the hull with a round depression in the chisel head to properly peen the rivet and stop the leak.

2. If the rivet is badly worn, or has been leaking for a long time, use a grinder to grind off the head of the rivet and punch the old rivet out of the boat. Then, insert an oversized rivet that nicely fills the hole, and then use the same bucking tool on the inside of the boat and an air rivet tool with the round depression in the chisel head to properly peen the rivet.

So, for the good and complete job, you need to be able to see both sides of each rivet needing repair. If that means that you have to remove the floor, or side of the boat to get to both sides of the rivet, then that is what you have to do.

Things like pop rivets, epoxy, sealing goo and or welding simply do not work on a riveted boat and really should not be used in an attempt to seal the leak.

Do it right - gain access to both side of the rivet and do it right.

If the rivets are in the bottom of the hull and if there are only a few, you can sometimes drill a hole in the floor to access the backside of the rivet. Use a long round bucking tool to fit through the hole and access the back of the rivet - with the air riveter on the outside of the boat. After each rivet repair, then repair the floor.

If you do decide to drill through the floor - remember - there are things under the floor -
Gas Tank
Live well fill and drain hoses,
Insulation,
Pumps
Wiring.

So, if you do drill - use a great deal of caution - start with a small drill and stop as soon as you get through the floor. Then do some exploring with a wire and or long drill bit or rod, to figure out what is beneath the hole.

Worst case, you may have to pull the floor, and for example - pull a gas tank to get to leaky rivets that might be under a gas tank.

--------------
If you happen to have an open non floor style fishing boat, then it is simple and easy - put the bucking bar on the rivet on the inside of the boat, and rivet it up from the outside with the air riveter.

Good luck
REW
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  #5  
Old 04-18-2011, 12:00 AM
REW REW is offline
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Here is a product by
West Systems, which is a flexible epoxy that they tout as being able to fix aluminum leaking rivets long term.
I have never tried it, but it would certainly be much easier than taking the floor out of a boat.


I have used other West Systems adhesives in past years and have nothing but great things to say about their products. So, if they say that it will work for an application, I certainly wouldn't discount what they say.


http://www.westsystem.com/ss/aluminu...rivet-repairs/

http://www.altrec.com/nrs/g-flex-epo...&mr:adType=pla


REW
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  #6  
Old 04-18-2011, 07:59 AM
Robert M Robert M is offline
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If you only have a couple loose ones and you cant get behind them they make a sealed rivit that work well. Some boat dealers have them.
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  #7  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:05 AM
Robert M Robert M is offline
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http://www.npfasteners.com/sealed-rivets.shtml
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  #8  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:32 AM
SSH SSH is offline
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Location: Ham Lake, Minnesota, USA.
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I would recommend pulling up the floor to determine the issue. I had loose
rivets on my Lund. It turned out that the stringer just in front of the gas
tank was split causing the hull to flex.

I took it to a boat repair shop and they filled it with water to find all
the loose rivets. The entire floor and rod lockers were removed. The
stringer was replaced along with all the other loose rivets.
It was expensive at $4300, but the boat was not sellable in this
condition.

My damage was caused by pounding some very bigwaves (4 ft) on LOTW
for nine miles. It took four years after the pounding before I noticed the leaking.

The boat looks great now and in the future I will slow down in big seas to
prevent this from happening again.
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  #9  
Old 04-18-2011, 09:24 AM
Phil T Phil T is offline
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Alumacraft rivets are "oversize" for other brands, if you need to replace some of your rivets.
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  #10  
Old 04-18-2011, 09:33 AM
REW REW is offline
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Nebeyes,
One thing that a person needs to be concerned about when ever loose rivets are encounterd is the need to check the internal bracing of the boat.

The thing that the person needs to ask, address, and solve is simple - why did that particular rivet get loose.

Most often, rivets get loose because they are under stress and the hull plates are working and cause the rivet to get loose.

So, a total and final repair on some boats mean to really and carefully examine the area loose rivets in a boat and determine if additional internal structural bracing is required. i.e. if the hull is working too much due to the inherent design of the hull, any fixing on the rivets may be short term, because there may be an underlying structural issue with the boat.

For example, there was one brand of boats - (not lund) that built aluminum boat hulls for many different manufacturers for a number of years with the same hull design. Virtually every hull had the same defect and had the same failure for 10-15 years, until the boat manufacturer came back and changed the internal design with added bracing.

So, if you have a significant number of loose rivets in one particular area, look for impact damage and or failed bracing on the inside of the boat for a complete and final fix.

Good luck and stay dry.

REW
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