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#21
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Quote:
I haven't bought anything yet, so I'll keep looking around. Waxy |
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#22
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Wade any advice on drilling into the floor/carpet. I have a Ranger 1860 and I am planning to do the same thing you did. Also, what screws to use. Thanks
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#23
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Also,
I always remove all of my electronics at the end of every day, so for myself; it is a non issue. REW |
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#24
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Quote:
Separate the fibres of the carpet before drilling.. Take a nail punch and push an initial hole thru the carpet backing, and wiggle it around, making a hole for the drill bit to go thru.. (you dont want to risk snagging the carpet fibres). Drill a pilot hole thru the deck, and run the screws thru the mount. I found some black stainless screws at the local hdwe store.. Match them up to the holes in the mount. |
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#25
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Use 1/4" lexan.
Put carpet on bottom. Use plastic insert lock nut to adjust tension. Swing mount allows infinite adjustment. And, it is easy to swing unit out of the way when getting out of the boat over the bow. see attached photos |
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#26
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tried to upload photos
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#27
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Might not be good for you guys,but it works for me.
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/100_1010.jpg |
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#28
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Just re-mounted my HB 958c in a "better" location. I was tired of always mounting/ dismounting the front graph all the time. This way, I loosen the mount and fold it down, cover it and I'm down the road...
In my 1875 ProV, I found a hole, roughly 1/2" dia., behind the front deck light. Used a 3/8" dia cap screw to mount my customized Ram base, and the rest... is history. Solid as a rock!!The light? Just moved it to the other side below the T/M receptacle. Edit to add... If I ever make any changes, and yes... I will, with the "customized" (turned down) Ram base, I can easily replace the original light and the hole is gone AND the crushed carpet has also disappeared. Win, win... WIN!
__________________
Dan Northern Star Outfitters NPAA #713 Last edited by moose-hunter; 03-21-2013 at 07:38 AM. |
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#29
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For what it is worth. If you go with a system like Moose Hunter has displayed, by that I mean mounted on the "face" of the bow compartment area (usally in carpet) there are a few nice advantages. I run a Lund and there is a lot of room to do this "front face" mounting even with a front storage compartment door but maybe other boats wont have this option.
Assuming you have this option: First like someone mentioned mounting the unit on the top of that area makes for difficult boat covering and it also seems to get in the way of the BM cords. Plus those drilled holes are impossible to hide if you make a change someday...and you will.... Second it is much more protected going down the road and/or the lake. Also by mounting it to the right of center there is no interference with the BM trolling motor at all. I would add one thing: Go with a long arm ram mount (or what ever brand you choose) for a couple reasons. One it makes it easier to reach when your operating out of the front (less bending over) and also when the the unit is not in use I put the cover on the screen then let the face of the unit lay flat on the floor and then tighten up the ram mount. This makes for a rock solid position to be going down the road or in real rough water and the screen cover can not fly off. Otherwise if a shorter mount is used then when the unit tips over or is lowered for transport it is just hanging there banging around with no support. Last edited by Crankbaiter; 03-21-2013 at 07:02 AM. |
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#30
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I been scratching my head for the last few months, alot of reading here..
![]() This is also my 1st fishing boat 2013 Lund Crossover 1875 which I'm rigging myself. Being a rather tall guy and not wanting the cover to inter-fear this is what I finally did. 788 on the bow with a HD ram 111U 1.5 ball I've heard of the Ram mounts slipping, but with the 788 and the 111, I think I'll be fine.. When moving fast in ruff water I may simply lay the thing down... I also went with a 898 & a Johnny Ray on the dash. Last edited by Genius; 03-22-2013 at 10:56 AM. |
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