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  #1  
Old 06-08-2012, 10:08 PM
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Default HGT making weight!!!!!

Hey you HGT tackle junkies I am going to be making Bottom Bouncers and was thinking I needed a little advice!!!I have 2 weight molds now walking weights for lindy rigs and now BB for everything else!!!Let me know how,what,tricks!!!

I look forward to your knowledge!!

FC
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  #2  
Old 06-09-2012, 08:26 AM
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I also have the walking sinker mold and a bank sinker mold. I use hard lead for pouring my sinkers. I find that the soft lead is to soft so I prefer the hard lead.
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:38 AM
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I also have the walking sinker mold and a bank sinker mold. I use hard lead for pouring my sinkers. I find that the soft lead is to soft so I prefer the hard lead.
Thanks Scat!

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Old 06-15-2012, 07:58 AM
2XL 2XL is offline
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I have the egg, walking and splitshot sinker molds. I don't use bottom bouncers so I can't say one way or another about that mold. One thing is that molds that I use that require inserts work much better when the mold is warmed up. Well, actually, all molds work better warmed up but I always warm molds that need inserts a little hotter then I would if I were pouring plain jigs etc.
I use soft lead on everything and highly recomend it if you get into pouring your own splitshot. I made a PILE of splitshot with harder lead a few years back and ended up remelting all of them because they were not pliable enough to pinch/hold onto my line. GRRRR Live and learn. LOL

I am not familiar with how the bottom bouncer mold works but if you can cast the weight of the BB closer to the open end of the wire insert you could easily experiment with temps etc. By going that route and you don't like your results you could easily dip the end of the wire with the weight back into your lead pot , melt the dud off and start again.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:51 AM
JJ Scully JJ Scully is online now
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one thing to remember when making bottom bouncers is to put a little kink in the wire where you are going to pour the lead so that the weight doesn't move up and down the wire.
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2XL View Post
I have the egg, walking and splitshot sinker molds. I don't use bottom bouncers so I can't say one way or another about that mold. One thing is that molds that I use that require inserts work much better when the mold is warmed up. Well, actually, all molds work better warmed up but I always warm molds that need inserts a little hotter then I would if I were pouring plain jigs etc.
I use soft lead on everything and highly recomend it if you get into pouring your own splitshot. I made a PILE of splitshot with harder lead a few years back and ended up remelting all of them because they were not pliable enough to pinch/hold onto my line. GRRRR Live and learn. LOL

I am not familiar with how the bottom bouncer mold works but if you can cast the weight of the BB closer to the open end of the wire insert you could easily experiment with temps etc. By going that route and you don't like your results you could easily dip the end of the wire with the weight back into your lead pot , melt the dud off and start again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ Scully View Post
one thing to remember when making bottom bouncers is to put a little kink in the wire where you are going to pour the lead so that the weight doesn't move up and down the wire.
Thanks 2XL & JJ! I like to pour 1 or 2 dry runs to heat up any mold I'm using.I figured I'd do the same with the BB mold.I'm going to give it a shot this weekend we'll see how they turn out.I read about kinking the wire on the instructions for using the mold.

Thanks again JJ!!!

FC
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Last edited by fishincrazy; 06-15-2012 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:47 PM
JJ Scully JJ Scully is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishincrazy View Post
Thanks JJ! I like to pour 1 or 2 dry runs to heat up any mold I'm using.I figured I'd do the same with the BB mold.I'm going to give it a shot this weekend we'll see how they turn out.I read about kinking the wire on the instructions for using the mold.

Thanks again JJ!!!

FC
My bottom bouncer mold pours pretty easy compaired to some of the others. What I usually do it pour dry runs until I get a good full pour then I close the mold back up with the hot lead still in it. Then leave it sit on top of my pot for a couple of minutes to really let the mold soak up the heat from the lead.
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ Scully View Post
My bottom bouncer mold pours pretty easy compaired to some of the others. What I usually do it pour dry runs until I get a good full pour then I close the mold back up with the hot lead still in it. Then leave it sit on top of my pot for a couple of minutes to really let the mold soak up the heat from the lead.
That sounds like a plan I was also thinking I've got a coleman single burner I could fire up and lay the mold across it to keep it warm.I'm looking forward to pouring.I did have a question about weight placement on the wire I was thinking on a 10" wire I would want the weight to be centerd at like 3" from bend?Does this sound right?

Thanks again JJ!!!!!

FC
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  #9  
Old 06-15-2012, 10:03 PM
JJ Scully JJ Scully is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishincrazy View Post
I did have a question about weight placement on the wire I was thinking on a 10" wire I would want the weight to be centerd at like 3" from bend?Does this sound right?

Thanks again JJ!!!!!

FC
I put mine just a little above center on the shaft. Not sure why I just coppied someone elses when I started and they work for me.
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:26 PM
2XL 2XL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ Scully View Post
My bottom bouncer mold pours pretty easy compaired to some of the others. What I usually do it pour dry runs until I get a good full pour then I close the mold back up with the hot lead still in it. Then leave it sit on top of my pot for a couple of minutes to really let the mold soak up the heat from the lead.
This is exactly how I warm all my molds too. I read somewhere way back when that it's a good idea to warm the molds slowly (relatively speaking)vs putting them on direct heat to avoid warping or damaging the mold. The article said pouring dry runs was a good way to warm your mold gradually.
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