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  #11  
Old 06-28-2012, 05:19 PM
perchjerker perchjerker is offline
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Originally Posted by BigGameBalls View Post
I think what I will do is rig up all my spinner/harness rods with the Northland stainless bottom bouncers that I have because they have the plastic quick change clevis on them. Then If I want I can just take the weight off the clevis and clip on a snap weight and fish them off the bottom.

I'm assuming I shouldn't have any problem with line twist as long as I use a good ball bearing swivel?
so instead of taking our advice you are going to do something different

thats fine, but why ask in the first place???
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  #12  
Old 06-28-2012, 10:02 PM
BigGameBalls BigGameBalls is offline
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Originally Posted by perchjerker View Post
so instead of taking our advice you are going to do something different

thats fine, but why ask in the first place???

I didn't realize that the only advice that was given in the thread was yours. There were other people who also mentioned snap weights (which I already have a ton of). I also have a trollers bible which lets me know what depth I'm at with the snap weight at 20'. I fish a very clear lake where I can see the advantage of having a snap weight 20' away from the harness.

The main reason I like the snap weight idea better is because I can do exactly like I discribed and use the quick detach clevis on my northland bottom bouncers so that I can rig my rods up and leave them alone for an entire year. I can run a combination of bouncers and snap weights at the same time to target fish on the bottom and suspended fish at the same time and see if a pattern develops then have the ability to quickly switch out my rigs on the fly. To be honest I didn't think of going that route until after I started the thread.

Only reason I was asking if doing it that way would work was becasue I didn't know if leaving the quick detach clevis on there when I was not using a bottom bouncer would create a bunch of line twist.

When I'm on the water I dont waste time changing out set ups on my rods. I have 3 rods dedicated to crawler harnesses, 3 rods dedicated to cranks, bobbers, etc....

Last edited by BigGameBalls; 06-28-2012 at 10:06 PM.
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  #13  
Old 06-29-2012, 07:07 AM
perchjerker perchjerker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigGameBalls View Post
I didn't realize that the only advice that was given in the thread was yours. There were other people who also mentioned snap weights (which I already have a ton of). I also have a trollers bible which lets me know what depth I'm at with the snap weight at 20'. I fish a very clear lake where I can see the advantage of having a snap weight 20' away from the harness.

The main reason I like the snap weight idea better is because I can do exactly like I discribed and use the quick detach clevis on my northland bottom bouncers so that I can rig my rods up and leave them alone for an entire year. I can run a combination of bouncers and snap weights at the same time to target fish on the bottom and suspended fish at the same time and see if a pattern develops then have the ability to quickly switch out my rigs on the fly. To be honest I didn't think of going that route until after I started the thread.

Only reason I was asking if doing it that way would work was becasue I didn't know if leaving the quick detach clevis on there when I was not using a bottom bouncer would create a bunch of line twist.

When I'm on the water I dont waste time changing out set ups on my rods. I have 3 rods dedicated to crawler harnesses, 3 rods dedicated to cranks, bobbers, etc....
that great

you are all set then
__________________
Mary had a little pig,
She kept it fat and mellow.
And when the price of pork went up,
Dad shot the little fellow.

Mary had a little pig.
Her father shot it dead.
Now it goes to school with her,
Between two hunks of bread.
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